February is Pet Dental Month

There are several ways you can care for your pet’s teeth every day. A complete home dental care program for your pet often will include brushing as well as a pet food or supplement that helps care for your pet’s teeth while he or she eats.

Even if you aren’t able to brush your pet’s teeth every day, by incorporating a pet food into your pet’s daily routine or supplement, you can provide the dental care needed to keep your pet healthy. Be sure to talk with your veterinarian about the options that exist and which are right for your pet.

Brushing Your Pet´s Teeth

STEP 1: Introduce a brushing program to pets gradually. Avoid over-restraining your pet and keep brushing sessions short and positive. A cat or small dog can be held in your lap. Praise and reassure your pet throughout the process.

STEP 2: At first, dip a finger into beef bouillon for dogs or tuna water for cats. Rub the soaked finger gently over the pet’s mouth and teeth. Make the initial sessions short and positive.

STEP 3: Gradually, introduce gauze over the finger and gently scrub the teeth in a circular motion.

STEP 4: Finally, you can introduce a soft toothbrush designed for pets. Use a sensitive or ultra-soft brush designed for people or a brush designed for pets. Special pet toothbrushes are available from your veterinarian or specialty pet store. Don’t use toothpaste designed for people because it could upset the animal’s stomach.

Check out this video on how to introduce your pet to daily brushing and teeth care from the American Veterinary Medical Association:

Does your pet already have heathly, clean teeth?  Then you can upload pictures of your pet’s healthy smile to http://www.flickr.com/groups/pearlywhitepets/! Show us their smile!

Too Hot for Spot: Save Dogs this Summer

From the PETA website:

Be a Dog Defender: Save Dogs This Summer!

Summer is a season for celebrations—the Fourth of July, beach trips, picnics in the park, and barbecues! However, it can be a very dangerous time for dogs. Every year, countless dogs die after overheating inside parked cars. We need you to be a dog defender by looking out for dogs who are locked in hot cars. You can be the difference between life and death for dogs this summer.

Prevent Heatstroke by TakingThese Precautions:Never leave a dog in a parked car.
On a mild 73ºF day, the temperature inside a car can reach 120ºF in 30 minutes.
On a 90ºF day, the interior of a vehicle can reach 160ºF in minutes.

If you see a dog in a car and in distress, take down the car’s color, model, make, and
license-plate number, have the owner paged inside nearby stores, and call local
humane authorities or police. Have someone keep an eye on the dog. If police are
unresponsive or too slow and the dog’s life appears to be in imminent danger,
find a witness (or several) who will back your assessment, take steps to remove
the suffering animal, and then wait for authorities to arrive. Contact PETA for
a supply of fliers on the dangers of heatstroke to leave on windshields.

Don’t carry your dog in the bed of a pickup truck. This is always dangerous, but the heat brings the added danger of burning the dog’s feet on the hot metal.
Don’t take your dog jogging—except on cool mornings or evenings—and don’t force exercise. On long walks, rest often and take plenty of water. Hot pavement can burn dogs’ paws; choose shady, grassy routes.

Trim heavy-coated dogs’ fur, but leave an inch for protection against insects and
sunburn. Keep an eye on areas where hair is thin, like eyelids, ears, and nose
as they can get sunburned. Keep your dog indoors. If he or she must stay
outside for long, avoid the hottest part of the day. Provide shade, water, and a
kiddie pool. Keep drinking water in an anchored bucket or a heavy bowl that
won’t tip over.

Be a watchdog for chained dogs. Make sure that they have food, water, and shelter. If you see a dog in distress, contact humane authorities. Give the dog immediate relief by providing water.

With summer right around the corner, remind people about the dangers of leaving unattended animals inside hot vehicles. Thank you for taking action to save dogs during these dog days!

Your Dog Needs more than JUST FAST FOOD to THRIVE!

By Deb Dempsey
Co-owner Mouthful’s Pet Boutique
www.mouthfuls.net

If you’re a regular reader of The American Dog, then you’re probably already feeding a high-quality kibble to your precious four-legged fur baby. But, and there’s always a “but” with me, that’s merely the first step. Your dog needs more than just kibble in his daily diet. Think about it—we don’t feed our two-legged children the same “nutritionally complete” dry cereal at every meal for their entire lifetime. Why do we do that to our dogs and then expect them to thrive?

Oprah’s Veterinarian for her Chicago dogs, Dr. Barbara Royal, is a passionate advocate for species-appropriate nutrition and summed it up this way: “Yes, we feed dry kibble because it’s easy—that’s the bottom line. However, many health issues are due to a diet based on convenience, rather than on what’s essential for an animal’s optimal health.” I couldn’t agree with her more, and I believe that’s the case with all species, including us humans.

Dr. Royal further explains, “When dry food hits the stomach, it is not what the stomach expects. The large, dry lump of material needs a huge influx of water just to break it up and let it pass into the intestines. This means an abnormal amount of water drinking, and possibly mild dehydration as fluid is taken from the body for this task. There are many ramifications for the kidneys, general health, and even incontinence issues.”

Understand your dog’s digestive process

While humans begin the digestive process in our mouths, using digestive enzymes in our saliva, dogs don’t begin to digest their food until it hits their stomach. Many dog owners lament the fact that their dog gulps their food and never seems to chew. Canine teeth, however, were designed to rip the flesh of meat, not chew cud like a cow.

A dog’s stomach is a strong, muscular organ that mixes the food with hydrochloric acid, digestive enzymes, and mucus, which the stomach lining secretes to protect the stomach tissue. The food is held in the stomach until this initial digestion is complete and the food changes to a liquid consistency, similar to potato soup.

This “soup” is then pushed out of the stomach and into the small intestine. Further digestion takes place here with more enzymes added from the pancreas and liver. The absorption of nutrients takes place mainly in the small intestine. From there, the large intestine contains bacteria designed to break down any remaining fiber. If your dogs are clearing the room because of gas, chances are they are not digesting the plant material in their food.

A dog’s large intestine is mainly designed to absorb moisture, forming the stool. If a dog has loose stools, the addition of pureed pumpkin will help to absorb moisture.

Determining a dog’s ideal diet

For years, pet food companies and traditional veterinarians have told us that we should never feed table scraps to our dogs. Many of our clients sheepishly admit to slipping an occasional leftover to their dog and then look to me for forgiveness. Instead, I find myself patting them on the back and encouraging more real food to supplement their basic diet.

Dr. Royal advises that “there is no perfect dog food for every dog. The only way to find a 'perfect fit food' is to follow basic guidelines and see what works best.” She has absolute rules and flexible guidelines for her clients, and was kind enough to share them.

ABSOLUTE: Protein greater than 30% (dry matter basis, canned foods have a different measurement), avoid bad carbs (corn, wheat especially), avoid toxins, bad chemicals, and carcinogens (e.g. onions, chocolate, ethoxyquin, BHA, BHT).

FLEXIBLE: Try to feed foods with normal moisture content (avoid dry kibble), avoid other carbs (e.g. white potato), avoid too many chemicals (unpronounceable names and things you don’t recognize as food) or too many supplements (like garlic, which is a strong herbal medicine, and is best given in measured doses).

“I am always mindful of the financial constraints, preferences and lifestyle of the owner," Dr. Royal says. "After that, I factor in the lifestyle, physical response, and the preferences of the dog (working dog? couch potato?) and their physical reaction to the food (normal stool, healthy coat, good weight…) and then the food plan for a particular animal becomes apparent.”

Incorporate moisture into your dog’s diet

Most pet owners are hesitant to give up their dog’s dry kibble for convenience or financial reasons. I consistently have owners ask me if adding water to their dog’s kibble is a good idea to boost moisture content, so I posed this question to Dr. Royal. “It may help," she says, "but it is not an ideal solution. Canned, pre-prepared raw, or home-cooked foods are still better than dry processed food.”

I feed my own dogs a varied diet and advise our clients to do the same. A high-quality, dry kibble can be a good starting point and a convenient backup for most dog parents. Whenever your schedule and checkbook allow, however, try topping the food with raw or cooked meat, steamed veggies, homemade broth, or grain-free canned food. My canine cooking recipes on pages 24-33 are intended to inspire us to look at our dogs’ nutrition in a new way. Feeding dogs shouldn’t be left up to scientists and chemical labs.

Last thoughts

Just as our two-legged children can survive eating a diet of only fast food, dogs can obviously survive on a wide variety of diets, including those heavy in carbohydrates. The gold standard AAFCO, Inc. (American Association of Feed Control Officials) feeding trials need only prove that a dog can survive for 26 weeks while eating the food. The question that group hasn’t publicly addressed, however, is whether those dogs are thriving to their full potential.

Ideally, a dog’s diet should consist primarily of fresh meat that has lots of moisture. There are many wonderful, meat-based kibble formulas on the market these days, including Canidae, Evangers, Mulligan Stew, and Solid Gold. Dr. Royal especially favors grain-free formulas by Nature’s Variety Instinct, Wellness Core, Innova EVO, and Orijen. Topping those high-quality diets with a dollop of high-quality canned food or raw meat is a good step towards adding necessary moisture and helping the food pass through the stomach’s acid bath more quickly—giving the dog’s digestive system a better chance to utilize those high-quality nutrients.

FYI ...

The less moisture a dog has in his diet, the longer the food will stay in the stomach, mixing with hydrochloric acid and losing valuable nutrients. Therein, even if you’re feeding an incredibly wonderful kibble, many of those nutrients are lost to the stomach acid. Consider this: The total digestion time of raw food is generally 4-6 hours, while dry food may take 10-12 hours to go through a dog’s digestive tract.

Dr. Royal points out, “Animals eating only processed foods (dry kibble) have been shown to have significantly decreased enzyme levels in their intestinal villi. These enzymes are essential for proper nutrient processing. Highly processed foods increase quick absorption and speed motility in a way that is not always healthful. Without proper enzymes and transit time, the GI tract can’t properly prepare and absorb nutrients. The processed food therefore alters the ability of the intestines to be an effective “border patrol,” determining which molecules are allowed to pass from the GI tract into the animal’s bloodstream.”


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Dr. Barbara Royal, DVM, owns and operates The Royal Treatment Veterinary Center, offering general as well as specialty complimentary veterinary services to her clients in the Chicago area. Read more about her practice at www.royaltreatmentveterinarycenter.com

Please Spay and Neuter you pets for their health!

Posted By: Tracey Carr

From: Compassionate Pug Rescue

Pyometra is deadly if left untreated! We want to make everyone aware of a disease that can be easy to cure and even easier to prevent! We received a late night e-mail from a man saying his pug was dying and he did not think it would live through the night. He said she would vomit when she tried to eat and had vaginal bleeding. She was 8 years old and had not been spayed. He said she had lost 30% of her body weight from not eating. This had been going on for days. He never took her to the vet. By the time he emailed us, it was 10pm on Friday night. The pug had kept them awake the night before crying in pain. They finally decided they had to do something. The problem was- it was too late, they had waited too long! One of our volunteers met him at the emergency pet hospital at midnight. The pug was weak, her hind end covered in blood and she was crying in pain. The uterus had ruptured and this poor pug was literally oozing pus from a major infection known as Pyometra. (see disease info below) We are heartbroken and at the same time angry that this happened. If he had contacted us even a day earlier, she may have had a chance. This is such a senseless tragedy- so easily avoidable. They watched this poor pug suffer and did not seek help until it was too late! We are a rescue. We are here to help the pugs in need. We help them, regardless of their condition but it is cruel to bring us a pug that is within hours of death when you didn't seek help sooner. Now we all mourn the loss of this pug. You know your pets, you know if their behavior has changed. They rely on you to keep them safe and healthy! Don't let them down. Pyometra is a disease of the uterus in female dogs . Pyometra is an important disease to be aware of for any dog owner because of the sudden nature of the disease and the deadly consequences if left untreated. It has been compared to acute appendicitis in humans, because both are essentially empyemas within an abdominal organ. Pyometra is a result of hormonal and structural changes in the uterus lining. This can happen at any age, whether she has bred or not, and whether it is her 1st or 10th heat (although it becomes more common as the dog gets older). The most obvious symptom of open pyometra is a discharge of pus from the vulva. Symptoms include vomiting, loss of appetite, depression, and increased drinking and urinating. Closed pyometra is a more serious condition than open pyometra not only because there is no outlet for the infection but also because a diagnosis of closed pyometra can easily be missed due to its insidious nature. Bloodwork may show dehydration, increased white blood cell count, and increased alkaline phosphatase. X-rays will show an enlarged uterus, and ultrasound will confirm the presence of a fluid filled uterus. The most important aspect of treatment of pyometra is quick action. Female dogs are often septic and in shock. Intravenous fluids and antibiotics should be given immediately. The treatment of choice is an emergency spay, to remove the infected organ. Please Spay and Neuter you pets for their health!

As gardening season is upon us...

Please share this with all the pet owners you know and ask them to do the same - the information you take a few minutes to share might prevent the senseless loss of other pets.

Please tell every dog or cat owner you know. Even if you don't have a pet, please pass this to those who do. Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Target, Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other garden supply stores contains a lethal ingredient called 'Theobromine'.

It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Over the weekend, the doting owner of two young lab mixes purchased Cocoa Mulch from Target to use in their garden. The dogs loved the way it smelled and it was advertised to keep cats away from their garden. Their dog (Calypso) decided the mulch smelled good enough to eat and devoured a large helping. She vomited a few times which was typical when she eats something new but wasn't acting lethargic in any way. The next day, Mom woke up and took Calypso out for her morning walk . Half way through the walk, she had a seizure and died instantly.

Although the mulch had NO warnings printed on the label, upon further investigation on the company's web site,  this product is HIGHLY toxic to dogs and cats.

Cocoa Mulch is manufactured by Hershey's, and they claim that "It is true that studies have shown that 50% of the dogs that eat Cocoa Mulch can suffer physical harm to a variety of degrees (depending on each individual dog). However, 98% of all dogs won't eat it." 

*Snopes site gives the following information:  http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoamulch.asp *

Theobromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.

**PLEASE PASS THIS ON**

Kids' toys are not for doggies!

Posted on the Bow Wow Haus Blog

This came to our attention today via Zen Dog Training and the Chesapeake Bay Retriever Relief & Rescue Group, and we wanted to share with everyone. Please let other dog-lovers in your life know -

"Last night at agility class, a vet, who is a fellow agility student was telling us about a case she had this week. The dog ate a child's teddy bear and was very sick. When she opened the dog up to remove what she thought was an intestinal obstruction she found a huge gelatin type mess inside and the dogs intestines were black and the tissue dead. The dog will die no surgery can fix him up there was no living intestine left from stomach to colon.

This was not an obstruction. .... so she called the manufacturer of the Teddy Bear on a quest to find out what the gel was and what killed the dog. Turns out the stuffing in children's toys contains ingredients for flame retardants and mite control! It is designed to be come a gel. It is highly toxic. Now you would think a child's toy would be safe because it is for children, but they don't expect a child to eat the stuffing of the toys... huummmm that seems a bit scary too. But we all know dogs demolish stuffed toys.

So do not give or buy your dog any children's stuffed animals... some people get them at goodwill etc. The vet will be posting a warning and story and I will send any other facts as needed and as I learn more. Maybe some children's toys do not have this ingredient, but better to be safe than sorry. So meanwhile, make sure all your dog toys are for dogs. Please pass this on... it is a horrible death she described and one that can be avoided."

What is separation anxiety and how to treat it?

Find how to treat your pets anxiety at the Pawhaus Pet Boutique.

Vets and trainers are often consulted about dogs, who when left alone, cry, howl, bark, urinate, defecate, or simply destroy everything in their paths. Whatever destructive or inappropriate behavior your dog engages in when you leave him alone, he is not doing it to “punish” you for leaving him alone. Rather, his behavior is generally the result of stress, fear and/or boredom.

Depending on your dog’s behavior when you are gone you can sometimes differentiate between stress-related behavior and boredom. For example, assuming you are giving your dog appropriate opportunities to relieve himself during the day, urinating and defecating in your absence is more likely to be a sign of stress than of housetraining problems. If upon returning home, your dog is panting and sticks to your side like glue, it is likely he is suffering from separation anxiety.

Many dog behavior experts sub-divide separation anxiety into “true” separation anxiety and “isolation distress.” With “true” separation anxiety your dog’s fears are focused on a particular person (“Oh no! Jane’s gone!”). With isolation distress, simply being alone is the problem for your dog. Thus, isolation distress can sometimes be alleviated by the company of other dogs or people – letting your dog stay with a friend when you are out or taking your dog to doggy daycare. Separation anxiety can be more challenging to address because your dog’s stress is triggered by being away from a particular person. To learn several things you can do lessen your dog’s separation anxiety, click here.

Pawz Dog Boots

Now available at the Pawhaus Pet Boutique - Pawz Dog Boots!

PAWZ is the worlds only disposable and reusable, waterproof dog boot. Made of natural rubber, PAWZ are 100% biodegradable. PAWZ are designed to go on easily and fit securely without zippers or straps. Fashionable yet durable, PAWZ offers serious paw protection. PAWZ is the most natural-feeling boot your dog can wear because without padding your dog can feel the ground, providing a needed sense of security. Like a sock, PAWZ moves with your dog allowing full paw motion and maximum comfort. And imagine never losing another expensive boot again. PAWZ come 12 in a package and each boot may be worn many times.

Check out this video on how Pawz would work for your dog:

The Vaccination Challenge

Rescue groups holds a very solid place on the hearts of the people at Pawhaus Pet Boutique. We try to help as many as we can with fundraising efforts and donations - but unfortunately there seem to be more and more animals in need these days.

In our August newsletter we announced that 5% of our sales for that month would be donated to Big Heart Rescue for their Vaccination Challenge Event. Here are more details about the Vaccination Challenge and how you can help:

Big Heart Rescue is thrilled to announce that we will be heading to Bella Coola on September 5th and 6th to conduct our first Animal Wellness Clinic in this community!

Our team of vets, vet tech's and other volunteers hope to examine, vaccinate, de-worm, de-flea and medically support approximately 150 companion animals during this exciting two day event.

We are looking for your financial support via our Vaccination Challenge.

In Memory of Baby Ellawho died of Distemper and Parvo

Every $14 donated allows us to vaccinate one companion animal and this means you personally have helped to save a innocent soul from the horrific diseases of Parvo and Distemper. These diseases take far too many lives and cause needless suffering and death.

Will you help to save a life by donating $14 for a vaccination? You can make a difference!

Your invaluable donation can be made via PayPal, Canada Helps, Cheque or Money Order with instructions located on the Donations page of this site.

How Often Should I Wash my Dog?

Most advice you find on the internet recommends washing your dog just several times per year!Either these people have outdoor dogs or the articles were written a long time ago when the quality of pet shampoos was very poor! Times have changed!

Today, dog’s enjoy shampoos and conditioners that are on par with the best human shampoos- that don’t have harsh chemicals and that don’t strip the hair of all of it’s oils.The arguments against washing your dog too often are generally about stripping the coat of natural oils. The more often you wash something, the more often the sebum (oil) is going to be removed.

Think about your own hair. If you don’t wash it, what happens? It gets oily. Is the oil good for your hair? Probably, but we wash our hair everyday anyway so that it’s clean!

There are several factors you should consider when deciding how often to wash your dog which include:

1. Does your dog live indoors or outdoors, and does your dog sleep in your bed?
   If your dog lives in your house with you and more importantly, if he/she sleeps in your bed, then you are probably going to wash your dog regularly–depending on the breed anywhere from once a week to once a month. I know this is radical thinking, but, if your dog sits on your sofa, you probably don’t want him dragging in dirt, poop, insects and other grime onto your sofa. So, the trade off is that your dog’s coat ~might ~ be marginally drier but you will have a fresh smelling dog that you can cuddle without the fear that gross stuff is getting into the sheets.
2. Breed of dog.
   Dogs that have dry skin can be bathed less frequently than dogs with oily skin. Harsh-textured coats repel dirt pretty well so they don’t get as dirty as a soft-coated dog. Dogs like Maltese, Yorkies, Afghans and Shitzus should be bathed once a week. Harsh-coated breeds, like Shelties and Collies, can be bathed once a month. If you’re not sure, remember, a clean dog is a happy dog! One of my dog’s is a Maltese and I can’t imagine washing her less than once every week. Little white dogs pick up lots of dirt and by weeks end they are looking brown instead of white. Also, I hate to mention it but long-coated dogs get those famous cling on poops stuck to their bottoms.My other dog, a Westie, who has a thicker coat, doesn’t lget so dirty, but, I have to wash her every week due to the next point– allergies.
3. Is anyone in your household allergic to dogs?
   If so, you SHOULD groom & bathe them as often as possible. According to the American Lung Association, doing so will help remove the dander that accumulates on a pet’s fur.I am allergic to one of my dogs and when I don’t wash her once a week I get wheezy and sneezy.
4. What activities does your dog partake in?
   Do you take your dog to the dog park? Does you dog play in the sand or dirt? Does your dog roll in the grass or go swimming or hiking? What about sniffing butts, eating poop or drooling?Well, if you have a normal dog, she probably partakes in several of the above activities– all of which warrant regular bathing. Again, you have to think of the trade off. Your dog’s coat may be marginally drier. HOWEVER, he will be cleaner, smell better, and most important you will be more likely to give a clean dog lots of love. Those smelly dogs we tend to keep at arms length.
5. Does your dog suffer from itchy skin?
   Unlike humans who absorb most environmental allergens through their noses and mouths, dogs tend to absorb allergens through the skin. Weekly bathing can prevent itchiness , washing allergens away before they get a chance to penetrate the skin.

So at the conclusion of all of this — the answer for MOST dogs is to wash them once every week to once a month, depending on the above circumstances.But remember, use a gentle pet shampoo and conditioner . Do not use your own shampoo.

Click here for an article of why you should not use your own shampoo on your dog. Also, if you simply can’t wash your dog for a prolonged period of time you can use a dry shampoo, like Dry Dog Instant Clean - This is a really effective spray on bath replacement that helps to get rid of bad odors.

Dog Exercise Needs

Source: http://dogtime.com/exercise-needs.html

We often think of exercise only as a health issue, but it has significant day-to-day effects on a dog's behavior as well. Dogs--particularly puppies and young dogs--have a lot of energy, and if they don't get the chance to burn it off, destructive behavior is often the result. If you're annoyed at the holes your dog has dug, have headaches from his barking, and have to replace pillows shredded into expensive fluff, your dog's probably not getting enough exercise.

These behavior issues cause many people to give up their dogs, even though they're completely preventable. (You know those "free to a good home, dog needs room to run" ads? They're usually placed by people whose dogs don't need room to run; they need exercise they're not getting.) Unfortunately, some people don't think enough about exercise when selecting a breed, and they choose a dog who needs more exercise than they're willing or have time to provide.

How much exercise does my dog need?

How much exercise is enough depends on your dog's age, breed, and health. A 10-month old Irish Terrier puppy is going to need more than a five-year old Whippet (you could appropriately sing, "Wild thing, you make my heart sing" as your puppy races around the house and yard). A sight hound needs short bursts of exercise; guarding dogs don't need as much overall as sporting breeds who like to hunt all day. Even within a breed, the need varies. A highly energetic eight-year-old Golden Retriever could easily need more exercise than a calm three-year old Golden. And geriatric dogs still need to go for walks--just shorter ones than they used to enjoy.
Generally speaking, a leashed walk around the block isn't going to cut it. Most dogs need 30 to 60 minutes of exercise a day. Your canine pal needs enough that he's slowed down by the time you stop.

Some general rules of thumb:

• Active breeds need a minimum of 30 minutes of hard aerobic exercise most days of the week, preferably daily.
• Not all toy or small breeds get enough exercise inside the house (contrary to popular belief). Pugs, for example, are prone to obesity and need much more exercise than they usually get.
• It's not safe to go out in extremely hot or cold weather. During such periods, stay inside and teach tricks to engage your dog's mind, throw toys, or run up and down the stairs together.
• Good exercise uses both mental and physical muscles. Exploring a new hiking trail, for example, engages your dog's mind as well as his body.
• Live by the philosophy that a tired dog is a good dog.

Where to get exercise

Like people, most dogs like both familiarity and a little variety in their exercise routines.
Many dogs get to know the neighborhood during walks and enjoy checking on their favorite spots.

Dog parks are popular places for off-leash exercise and romping with other dogs, which is exactly what most dogs need. However, not all dogs can play nicely with others. If your dog doesn't like other dogs, the dog park is definitely not the place for him.

Doggie day care can exercise both his mind and body. Dogs should come home from day care worn out and deliciously happy.

The cost of not getting enough

Inactive dogs are often overweight dogs, and as in people, that brings plenty of health risks. Obesity contributes to a dog's risk of diabetes, respiratory disease, and heart disease. It exacerbates common orthopedic concerns such as hip dysplasia and arthritis. Obesity can stress joints, ligaments, and tendons. Geriatric dogs often have a hard enough time getting up without the added problem of lifting excess pounds.

Consider a Canine Massage

Few things in life feel as good as a massage, so your pooch would probably love one. And just as people can benefit from a massage's mind-body effects -- like stress reduction, better blood circulation, and improved muscle tone -- so may your furry friend.

If you think your dog would enjoy a massage, run the idea by your vet. It may not be appropriate for pets with health problems such as arthritis, fractures, cancer, or certain skin conditions.

Look for a certified massage therapist who has been trained in animal massage, or ask your vet if he or she has training in animal massage.

Another option is to learn how to do it yourself. Massage therapy schools in your area may offer animal massage classes. Not only will you gain a new skill, but also you'll get more bonding time with your buddy. A massage also provides an opportunity to check your pet for unusual growths and lumps.

Source: DogAge.com

Pet First Aid Tips

Emergency treatment and first aid for pets should never be used as a substitute for veterinary care. But it may save your pet's life before you can get your pet to a veterinarian.

Poisoning and Exposure to Toxins

Poisoning is a pet emergency that causes a great deal of confusion for pet owners. In general, any products that are harmful for people are also harmful for pets. Examples include cleaning products, rodent poisons and antifreeze. But you also need to be aware of common food items that may be harmful to your pet. The AVMA brochure What You Should Know About Household Hazards to Pets offers a summary of what foods and common household items may pose a danger to your pet. Additional information and examples can be found on the other Web sites listed in this section.

If your pet's skin or eyes are exposed to a toxic product (such as many cleaning products), check the product label for the instructions for people exposed to the product; if the label instructs you to wash your hands with soap and water if you're exposed, then wash your pet's skin with soap and water (don't get any into its eyes, mouth or nose). If the label tells you to flush the skin or eyes with water, do this for your pet as soon as possible (if you can do it safely), and call a veterinarian immediately.

If you know your pet has consumed something that may be harmful, or if the animal is having seizures, losing consciousness, is unconscious or is having difficulty breathing, telephone your veterinarian, emergency veterinary clinic or the Animal Poison Control Center hotline (888.426.4435 – available 365 days/year, 24 hours/day) immediately. There is a fee for the consultation.

If possible, have the following information available:

• Species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved
• Symptoms
• Name/description of the substance that is in question; the amount the animal was exposed to; and the length of time of the exposure (how long it's been since your pet ate it or was exposed to it).
• Have the product container/packaging available for reference.

Collect any material your pet may have vomited or chewed, and place it in a plastic sealable bag to take with you when you bring your animal in for veterinary treatment.
Additional Information on Animal Poisoning:The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) offers additional information and resources:
Animal Poison Control Center
Animal Poison Control FAQs

Another resource is Killer Grapes and Other Concerns in Animal Poison Control, available on the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine's Web site.

Seizures

• Keep your pet away from any objects (including furniture) that might hurt it. Do not try to restrain the pet.
• Time the seizure (they usually last 2-3 minutes).
• After the seizure has stopped, keep your pet as warm and quiet as possible and contact your veterinarian.
  

Fractures

• Muzzle your pet.
• Gently lay your pet on a flat surface for support.
• While transporting your injured pet to a veterinarian, use a stretcher (you can use a board or other firm surface as a stretcher, or use a throw rug or blanket as a sling). If possible, secure the pet to the stretcher (make sure you don't put pressure on the injured area or the animal's chest) for transport—this may be as simple as wrapping a blanket around them.
• You can attempt to set the fracture with a homemade splint, but remember that a badly-placed splint may cause more harm than good. If in doubt, it is always best to leave the bandaging and splinting to a veterinarian.

Bleeding (external)

• Muzzle your pet.
• Press a clean, thick gauze pad over the wound, and keep pressure over the wound with your hand until the blood starts clotting. This will often take several minutes for the clot to be strong enough to stop the bleeding. Instead of checking it every few seconds to see if it has clotted, hold pressure on it for a minimum of 3 minutes and then check it.
• If bleeding is severe and on the legs, apply a tourniquet (using an elastic band or gauze) between the wound and the body, and apply a bandage and pressure over the wound. Loosen the tourniquet for 20 seconds every 15-20 minutes. Severe bleeding can quickly be life-threatening—get your animal to a veterinarian immediately if this occurs.
  

Bleeding (internal)

• Symptoms: bleeding from nose, mouth, rectum, coughing up blood, blood in urine, pale gums, collapse, weak and rapid pulse.
• Keep animal as warm and quiet as possible and transport immediately to a veterinarian.
  

Burns

Chemical

• Muzzle the animal.
• Flush burn immediately with large quantities of water.

Severe

• Muzzle the animal.
• Quickly apply ice water compress to burned area.
  

Choking

• Symptoms: difficulty breathing, excessive pawing at the mouth, choking sounds when breathing or coughing, blue-tinged lips/tongue.
• Use caution – a choking pet is more likely to bite in its panic.
• If the pet can still breathe, keep it calm and get it to a veterinarian.
• Look into the pet's mouth to see if a foreign object is visible. If you see an object, gently try to remove it with pliers or tweezers, but be careful not to push the object further down the throat. Don't spend a lot of time trying to remove it if it's not easy to reach—don't delay, and get your pet to a veterinarian immediately.
• If you can't remove the object or your pet collapses, place both hands on the side of your pet's rib cage and apply firm quick pressure, or lay your pet on its side and strike the rib cage firmly with the palm of your hand 3-4 times. The idea behind this is to sharply push air out of their lungs and push the object out from behind. Keep repeating this until the object is dislodged or until you arrive at the veterinarian's office.
  

Heatstroke

• Never leave your pet in the car on warm days. The temperature inside a car can rise very quickly to dangerous levels, even on milder days. Pets can succumb to heatstroke very easily and must be treated very quickly to give them the best chance of survival.
• If you cannot immediately get your pet to a veterinarian, move it to a shaded area and out of direct sunlight.
• Place a cool or cold, wet towel around its neck and head (do not cover your pet's eyes, nose or mouth).
• Remove the towel, wring it out, and rewet it and rewrap it every few minutes as you cool the animal.
• Pour or use a hose to keep water running over the animal's body (especially the abdomen and between the hind legs), and use your hands to massage its legs and sweep the water away as it absorbs the body heat.
• Transport the pet to a veterinarian as soon as possible.
  

Shock

• Symptoms: weak pulse, shallow breathing, nervousness, dazed eyes.
• Usually follows severe injury or extreme fright.
• Keep animal restrained, warm and quiet.
• If animal is unconscious, keep head level with rest of body.
• Transport the pet immediately to a veterinarian.
  

What to do if your pet is not breathing

• Stay calm
• If possible, have another person call the veterinarian while you help your pet.
• Check to see if your pet is unconscious.
• Open your pet's airway by gently grasping its tongue and pulling it forward (out of the mouth) until it is flat. Check the animal's throat to see if there are any foreign objects blocking the airway (see the section above on Choking)
• Perform rescue breathing by closing your pet's mouth (hold it closed with your hand) and breathing with your mouth directly into its nose until you see the animal's chest expand.
• Once the chest expands, continue the rescue breathing once every 4 or 5 seconds.
• What to do if your pet has no heartbeatDo not begin chest compressions until you've secured an airway and started rescue breathing (see the section above, What to do if your pet is not breathing).
• Gently lay your pet on its right side on a firm surface. The heart is located in the lower half of the chest on the left side, just behind the elbow of the front left leg. Place one hand underneath the pet's chest for support and place the other hand over the heart.
• For dogs, press down gently on your pet's heart about one inch for medium-sized dogs; press harder for larger animals and with less force for smaller animals.
• To massage the hearts of cats and other tiny pets, cradle your hand around the animal's chest so your thumb is on the left side of the chest and your fingers are on the right side of the chest, and compress the chest by squeezing it between your thumb and fingers.
• Press down 80-120 times per minute for larger animals and 100-150 times per minute for smaller ones.
• Don't perform rescue breathing and chest compressions at the same exact time; alternate the chest compressions with the rescue breaths, or work as a team with another person so one person performs chest compressions for 4-5 seconds and stops long enough to allow the other person to give one rescue breath.
• Continue until you can hear a heartbeat and your pet is breathing regularly, or you have arrived at the veterinary clinic and they can take over the resuscitation attempts.
• Please remember that your pet's likelihood of surviving with resuscitation is very low.
• However, in an emergency it may give your pet its only chance.

Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment.

Cocoa Mulch Warning

As the warmer weather approaches (or, at least for some of us the dream of warmer days) here is a warning for people (and pups) who love to dig around in the garden:

Please tell every dog or cat owner you know. Even if you don'thave a pet, please pass this to those who do.

Over the weekend the doting owner of two young lab mixes purchased Cocoa Mulch from Target to use in their garden. They loved the way it smelled and it was advertised to keep cats away from their garden. Their dog Calypso decided that the mulch smelled good enoughto eat and devoured a large helping. S he vomited a few times which was typical when she eats something new but wasn't acting lethargic in anyway.

The next day, Mom woke up and took Calypso out for her morning walk . Half way through the walk, she had a seizure and died instantly.

Although the mulch had NO warnings printed on the label, upon further investigation on the company's website, this product is HIGHLY toxic to dogs and cats.

Cocoa Mulch is manufactured by Hershey's, and they claim that

'It is true that studies have shown that 50% of the dogs that eat Cocoa Mulch can suffer physical harm to a variety of degrees (depending on each individual dog). However, 98% of all dogs won't eatit.'

This Snopes site gives the following information:http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoamulch.asp

Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called ' Theobromine'. It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Theobromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline.

A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.

Is there really any difference between dog shampoo & human shampoos?

We hear this question all the time– "what’s the difference between my shampoo and my dog’s shampoo?"

You may be surprised to learn that a lot is different. Of course, if you run out of Fido’s shampoo and you use your own to wash your dog a couple of times, nothing will happen. Your dog’s hair won’t fall out and life will probably go on as normal.

But there are areas in which human and dog shampoos differ. You may not notice the ill effects of human shampoo if used only a couple of times on your pooch, but after repeated use, you’ll start to see.

1. Ingredients. Dog’s have different problems that humans do. We usually don’t sit around and scratch our heads as much as dogs scratch. This is because dog’s eliminate toxins differently than we do. We can sweat them out. Since dogs really don’t sweat their toxins are eliminated through their kidneys and bowels...
2. Ph Balance. A dog’s skin is about 7.5 while human skin is about 5.5 (to put it in perspective, water is about 7.0). Therefore, a dog’s skin is more alkaline so ideally a dog’s shampoo should be between 6.5-7.5 or it could be irritating to the skin. Highly acidic shampoos may also diminish the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin. the result is dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Of course it’s a vicious cycle because the dog will scratch which only makes the problem worse.
3. Dog’s have sensitive skin- A dog only has about 3-5 cell-layers thick while we have about 10-15 layers thick. So, harsh shampoos with lots of chemicals and those that aren’t PH balanced will be irritating.

The case for conditioners - Shampoos by design are used for cleaning- removing unwanted grime from the skin and coat. But shampooing, without sealing the coat afterwords, leaves the hair shaft open– at that point residue can enter and oils and hydration escapes.
What you can do is use a conditioner after shampooing to close the hair cuticle and restore hydration, moisture and elasticity.

Conditioners also fill in the damaged hair that drying, brushing, dematting and rubbing causes. Just normal wear and tear chips away at the hair cuticle. Conditioners can help to remove the cuticle to a smooth state and one that gives a more lustrous appearance and feel...

So know you know the difference– there really is one!

February is Pet Dental Month

Brushing Your Dog's Teeth -

It is Mandatory for a Healthy Pet! February is National Pet Dental Health Month. There are so many aspects of keeping your dog healthy, but in my opinion, none is more important than brushing their teeth. The American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS) estimates that eighty percent of dogs have periodontal disease by the age of three. A few years ago, the idea of brushing your dog’s teeth was nearly unheard of. While it is gaining popularity, the majority of pet owners still do not brush their dogs’ teeth on a regular basis.

Objections to tooth-brushing:

1. I only give her dry dog food so I don’t need to brush her teeth: Unfortunately most dry dog foods have high starch content. Sugar and starches combine with the bacteria in the mouth and produce acids. These acids can eat away at the enamel on the tooth in addition to causing plaque build-up.
2. My dog doesn’t like it: When I was a kid, I didn’t like brushing my teeth, but it wasn’t a choice. It is part of a healthy lifestyle. If you let your dog make all the decisions in your house, it would be a disaster!
3. I don’t need to; I give them bones and chew toys: This is an equivalent approach to only chewing gum for your personal dental hygiene. You won’t find a dentist that recommends that approach! It is a nice addition but can’t do the job alone.
4. I just put an additive in the water: This is an equivalent approach to only using a mouth rinse for your own personal hygiene, except not even as good because your dog isn’t gargling and rinsing. Again, a nice addition but not sufficient by itself.

If you don’t brush your dog’s teeth, plaque will build up on the teeth, break off, and be absorbed into the bloodstream. This can lead to blockage in the arteries causing heart disease and kidney problems.

Hopefully, now I’ve convinced you that brushing is imperative. Here are some things you should know:

1. Brush at least three times per week to get maximum benefits.
2. Don’t use human toothpaste unless you have taught your dog to spit! Look on the back of your toothpaste. You will most likely find a statement that it should not be ingested. This is because it contains soap. Soap creates foam, which gives people the perception that the product is cleaning but is not indicative of the cleaning power of a product (it is for marketing purposes: perception is reality). Toothpaste designed specifically for pets does not contain soap; it won’t foam up; and it can be swallowed safely.
3. Replace the toothbrush when the bristles become frayed or every 3 months, as the brush will start to harbor microorganisms.
4. Follow teeth brushing with praise and an award so he/she looks forward to it next time.The American Animal Hospital Association says, “proper dental care may add as much as five years to your pet's life!" (http://www.healthypet.com/library_view.aspx?id=142). It only takes about one minute. Isn’t increasing your dog’s life expectancy worth a few minutes per week?

***PRODUCT BUZZ***

You can start your pets brushing routine right here at the Pawhaus Pet Boutique. We carry Cain & Able Kissable Toothbrush sets that will help your dog ward of bad breath, gum disease, multiple infections, and heart disease by consistently brushing your dog's teeth.
The unique design of the KissAble toothbrush makes it easy to clean all three sides of the tooth with one stroke.
The soft bristles massage the gums while the firmer bristles clean teeth.
The vanilla flavored toothpaste is All Natural and is great for dogs and their people! Get yours today!

Source: http://www.cainandablecollection.com/blog.asp

5 Common Mistakes Cat Owners Make

What are the most common mistakes that cat owners make with their cats? We interviewed several veterinarians to discuss this topic and came up with a list of 5 items. Here are five mistakes many cat owners make:

1. Not have yearly examination done on their cats. Yearly exams are important and can find health problems early when many are more treatable.
2. Don't keep a current ID tag or microchip on their cat. Many cats don't have a current ID tag or microchip. Dog owners do a way better job at keeping their dog identified. However, even indoor cats occasionally get out. This is the most vulnerable of cats. An ID tag or microchip is the BEST way a lost cat can be returned to you. At the clinics – we often see cats brought in without a tag or microchip that end off going off to Rabies Control or the Humane Society. Without Identification, many of these cats are never reunited with their owners.
3. Skimping on nutrition. A good quality food is important to cats. Skimping on nutrition can be a problem. Cats need a high quality balanced diet that is formulated to meet their life-stage needs.
4. Many cat owners don't pay attention to toxins and medications around their household that cats can get into. Maybe it comes down to cat-proofing your home to ensure your cat can't get into common toxins such as rat poison, antifreeze, medications (cat and human) or the trash. Cats are especially fond of tread and other liner objects such as yarn and ribbon. Keep those items picked up and out of the reach of your cat.
5. Lastly, some cat owners don't monitor their cats. It is important to monitor cats on a daily basis. Cats are so good at hiding their illnesses that often by the time we notice – the disease may be quite advanced. For this reason – it is important to look for early signs of problems. Monitor your cat's urinations, defecations, attitude and appetite every day. Don't just keep dry food down and not be sure if your cat is eating – offer a little canned twice a day to ensure he is eager to eat. Whatever you do, keep your cat safe. Ensure he has a good collar with an ID tag. Also, feed a good quality cat food, check that he is eating well and keep your home "cat-proof".

Source: http://www.petplace.com/

Protect Your Dog

Your dog is at risk for injury from hundreds of commonly-used home medicines and chemicals. Many home owners are unaware of these potential home hazards, and thousands of dogs are injured or die each year due to exposure to these substances. In this article, we consider five common household items that may pose a risk to your dog.

Acetaminophen (Tylenol®) is considered a very safe form of pain relief in people, but this drug should never be administered to cats. While low doses are tolerated in dogs, there are far better and safer pain killers available for both species. Cats cannot properly metabolize acetaminophen and toxic effects include damage to red blood cells, anemia, and severe liver injury. As little as one regular strength Tylenol® tablet can be lethal to an adult cat! Symptoms of intoxication include vomiting, weakness, difficulty breathing, and swelling of the face and legs. Most cats are exposed to Tylenol® by ingesting a dropped pill or following administration by a well-intentioned, but uninformed owner. Acetaminophen also is a poor analgesic for dogs, so you are better off asking your vet about effective and safer treatments than risking adverse effects.

Aspirin, Ibuprofen (Advil®), and Naproxen (Aleve®) all belong to a class of drugs called nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAID's). These drugs are commonly used to treat people for fever, arthritis, and other inflammatory conditions. Cats are unable to metabolize these drugs, and even one low (81 mg) dose given daily to a cat can be lethal after several days. Ultra-low doses can be safe, but should be guided by a veterinarian. While dogs better tolerate some NSAIDs, other drugs in this group carry a high risk of toxicity. NSAID toxicity in dogs causes gastrointestinal ulcerations, enhanced bleeding tendencies and kidney failure. Exposure occurs when dogs ingest unsupervised medication or receive doses by well-intentioned but misinformed owners. Initial symptoms of toxicity may include vomiting, lethargy, loss of appetite, and dark stools. There are several NSAID's on the market licensed to treat arthritis and pain in pets including Rimadyl®, Deramaxx®, EtoGesic®, and Metacam®. These medications (and low-dose aspirin in dogs) are generally safe if used as directed by your veterinarian. Never give any NSAID to your dog unless instructed by your veterinarian, and be aware that pre-existent diseases (kidney failure) and drug interactions (including commonly-used prednisone and furosemide) can potentiate the adverse effects of these drugs.


Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) keeps car engines from freezing in winter and overheating in summer. However, ingestion of this product is one of the best known toxicities affecting household dogs. While many people take their auto to the local garage, millions of Americans purchase over-the-counter antifreeze products to replace or supplement auto engine coolants. Inappropriate storage, drainage (into uncovered containers or pans), spillage in the garage or driveway, and inappropriate dumping into streets creates a real potential for lethal ingestion. Ethylene glycol (EG) is a critical toxic constituent of most antifreeze products. Following ingestion EG is metabolized into a number of chemicals that injure the kidneys, heart, lungs, and brain. Acute kidney failure is the best recognized lethal problem but initially dogs may appear drunk and then normal. Without intensive care, dogs and cats exposed to toxic amounts of ethylene glycol will die. Antifreeze carries a sweet, appealing taste so many dogs drink it willingly. As little as three tablespoons can be lethal to a 25 pound dog. Clearly, antifreeze must never be handled in a careless manner!


Gorilla Glue® is among the most prominent of the water-activated, expanding adhesives sold in hardware and home improvement stores. If ingested, this glue product can be fatal. Gorilla Glue® exposure most commonly occurs when a dogs chews on the bottle and ingests the glue. The glue expands and hardens within the stomach, a process that prevents vomiting of the ingested product. The lodged "foreign body" and associated ulceration of the stomach lining causes a loss of appetite, lethargy, and vomiting. Treatment requires surgical removal of the glue ball from the stomach. If your dog ingests this or any adhesive, read the package insert, call the 1-800 contact number on the package, monitor closely for symptoms, and contact your veterinarian.


Paper Shredders have become a common home office item. While these machines can help protect your identity, the ripping mechanism also presents a clear danger to the heads, limbs, tail, and skin of dogs and cats. Thus, while the following section may seem akin to a horror movie, the risks of shredders are worth understanding, and we suggest you read on. The aperture or opening of a shredder mechanism is designed to reduce risks, so it is relatively narrow. However, the powerful motor of some devices can literally pull in a hairy extremity or exploring tongue, causing severe tissue damage. Most paper shredder injuries occur when machines are left on in the "auto-feed" mode. Dogs are exposed most often when young children insert food items (think: peanut butter sandwich) into the machine, and the dog's instincts precipitates a lick into the opening. The auto-feed shredder can actually pull a dog's tongue into the machine resulting in severe tissue trauma or even transection of the tongue. The best ways to protect your dog (and children) from such injuries involves two simple rules: keep the paper shredder unplugged and never leave your machine on auto-feed.

To sum it up: there are many items in your home or garage that are potentially dangerous to your dogs. Help keep your dog safe by following these suggestions:

• Never give your dog prescription or nonprescription medications without the advice of your veterinarian.
• Keep antifreeze, glues, and other chemicals safely stored and out of the reach of your dog.
• Keep paper shredders unplugged (or at least fully turned "off") when not in use.
• Don't let your dog roam around the basement or garage.

Don't wait! Call for help if you have a concern about your dog. Some toxins and substances can be treated effectively with prompt therapy; some toxins are fatal if treatment is delayed.

If you think your dog has been exposed to a toxic substance, contact your veterinarian, local emergency clinic, search for information on www.PetPlace.com and/or call the Animal Poison Control Center (ASPCA) at 1.888.426.4435 (There is a $55.00 fee for this service).

Source: http://www.petplace.com/dogs/protect-your-dog-from-5-lethal-household-items/page1.aspx

Tips for a Pet-Safe New Years

If you're throwing (or attending) a New Year's Eve bash with a furry friend, beware of the dangers of those festive decorations! Even if you wanna take a photo of your pet perhaps wearing a party hat like this fella, take it off immediately afterwards. Not only is it dangerous if he decides to munch on the paper, but the elastic string can choke your pal or lodge in his throat if he decides to eat his entire costume. Please also beware of the following things:

• Noisemakers. I don't know about your pet, but North ran away the first (and only) time anyone blew one of these noisemaking horns in my home. I don't know if it was the loud sound, or the popping out, but my pup looked at me like I was crazy and ran into the next room. Never again.


• Confetti. Just like tree tinsel is dangerous, metallic confetti and other lil bits of paper can still cluster in a pet's throat or tummy. Be on the safe side, and keep this unsafe stuff out of the house!


• Hanging Decorations. Streamers and balloons can get stuck in a furry friend's intestinal tract so keep them up high and don't leave an animal unsupervised in a room with these things.


• Alcohol. I hope I don't really need to remind you of this, but alcohol is not for pets. While I'm sure no responsible animal owner would offer this substance to a pet, parties can result in spills or left out cups that pets may try to lick. Make sure this liquid (and any poisonous foods like chocolate) is faaar out of the reach of your pet's nose and tongue.

Happy New Years to everyone!

Source: http://www.petsugar.com/2651486

10 Steps for a Pet Safe Holiday

We are already deep into the Christmas holiday season, and millions of homes sport either real or faux trees – glittering towers of beauty that can pose a threat to your pets. Before you put the tree up, take a few moments to go over some safety precautions.

1. Choose the Right Spot. Pick an area where the tree can be enjoyed by the family but so much in the center activity that it can be easily knocked over. An area by the wall or in a corner is ideal and out of the traffic flow pattern of the house. Try to place the tree near an outlet so you don't have to run electrical cords long distances.
   
2. Prepare the Area. Lay down plastic sheeting or buy a "tree bag." This is an extra large trash bag used for live trees. Center the tree on the bag. When the season is over and you have removed the tree ornaments, pull the bag over the tree.
   
   This will catch the pine needles as they fall from the tree – and prevent them from being chewed or swallowed by your pet.
   
3. Secure the Tree. Many trees have been sent swaying by a rambunctious dog or puppy. Dogs can knock over a tree by rubbing against or playing under it. Pet can be injured if the trees or ornaments fall and break. You can place the tree in a corner and secure it from two sides to small hooks in the walls. Another trick is to place a small hook in the ceiling above the tree and use clear fishing line from the top of the tree to the hook. Apply gentle tension and tie. The clear line is invisible.
   
4. Hide the Cords. Electrical cords are a grave danger to pets – especially puppies and that tend to chew on anything. Cords can cause electrocution and serious injury or even death. Secure the cords by positioning them higher than the pet can reach or hiding them with special covers.
   
5. No Hooks. Check your ornaments and replace hooks with a loop of string tied in a knot. Ornaments often fall from the tree and pets may catch their mouths on or swallow the hooks.
   
6. Choose Safe Ornaments. There is no perfectly pet-safe bulb, as any ornament can be ingested and cause an intestinal obstruction. Pet "safer" bulbs would be plastic or wood. Glass bulbs on the lower limbs can be especially dangerous. If broken, pets can step on them and cut their feet or worse yet – treat the bulbs like a ball and chew on them causing them to break, resulting in mouth or throat trauma and bleeding. Many pet owners have learned the hard way not to place any ornaments on the lower limbs. Ornaments made of food may be especially attractive to pets.
   
7. Ribbons. Big red velvet ribbons are a lovely addition and may replace tinsel and garland that can be eaten dogs and caught in their intestine. Cats are especially attracted to the bright shiny tinsel and should really be avoided in households with cats. Ingestion of this material can cause intestinal obstruction that may require surgery.
   
8. Presents. Dogs love to investigate and most don't understand that the presents are not meant to be opened before Christmas Day. Decorative ribbons and string can be ingested, gifts can be destroyed by a playful pet. Consider storing the presents in a safe area until right before the holiday or make sure your pet is always supervised while investigating and searching for his special gift.
   
9. Sweep and Water. Sweep up the pine needles. Ingestion of needles can cause vomiting and gastric irritation. Keep the tree watered and only turn the lights on when you are at home. Risk of fire is always there with a live tree. Do not allow your pet access to the tree water to drink.
   
10. Supervise. The safest thing to do is to allow your pet access to the tree only when supervised that continue to want to bother the tree should be encouraged – using positive reinforcement – to leave it alone. Bitter apple can be sprayed on low branches for persistent chewers.
    
    Consider these steps for a holiday safe tree. For other tips on holiday hazards, please click on Holiday Hazards.
    
    
    Source: http://www.petplace.com/dogs/10-steps-for-a-dog-safe-holiday-tree/page1.aspx