Your Dog Needs more than JUST FAST FOOD to THRIVE!

By Deb Dempsey
Co-owner Mouthful’s Pet Boutique
www.mouthfuls.net

If you’re a regular reader of The American Dog, then you’re probably already feeding a high-quality kibble to your precious four-legged fur baby. But, and there’s always a “but” with me, that’s merely the first step. Your dog needs more than just kibble in his daily diet. Think about it—we don’t feed our two-legged children the same “nutritionally complete” dry cereal at every meal for their entire lifetime. Why do we do that to our dogs and then expect them to thrive?

Oprah’s Veterinarian for her Chicago dogs, Dr. Barbara Royal, is a passionate advocate for species-appropriate nutrition and summed it up this way: “Yes, we feed dry kibble because it’s easy—that’s the bottom line. However, many health issues are due to a diet based on convenience, rather than on what’s essential for an animal’s optimal health.” I couldn’t agree with her more, and I believe that’s the case with all species, including us humans.

Dr. Royal further explains, “When dry food hits the stomach, it is not what the stomach expects. The large, dry lump of material needs a huge influx of water just to break it up and let it pass into the intestines. This means an abnormal amount of water drinking, and possibly mild dehydration as fluid is taken from the body for this task. There are many ramifications for the kidneys, general health, and even incontinence issues.”

Understand your dog’s digestive process

While humans begin the digestive process in our mouths, using digestive enzymes in our saliva, dogs don’t begin to digest their food until it hits their stomach. Many dog owners lament the fact that their dog gulps their food and never seems to chew. Canine teeth, however, were designed to rip the flesh of meat, not chew cud like a cow.

A dog’s stomach is a strong, muscular organ that mixes the food with hydrochloric acid, digestive enzymes, and mucus, which the stomach lining secretes to protect the stomach tissue. The food is held in the stomach until this initial digestion is complete and the food changes to a liquid consistency, similar to potato soup.

This “soup” is then pushed out of the stomach and into the small intestine. Further digestion takes place here with more enzymes added from the pancreas and liver. The absorption of nutrients takes place mainly in the small intestine. From there, the large intestine contains bacteria designed to break down any remaining fiber. If your dogs are clearing the room because of gas, chances are they are not digesting the plant material in their food.

A dog’s large intestine is mainly designed to absorb moisture, forming the stool. If a dog has loose stools, the addition of pureed pumpkin will help to absorb moisture.

Determining a dog’s ideal diet

For years, pet food companies and traditional veterinarians have told us that we should never feed table scraps to our dogs. Many of our clients sheepishly admit to slipping an occasional leftover to their dog and then look to me for forgiveness. Instead, I find myself patting them on the back and encouraging more real food to supplement their basic diet.

Dr. Royal advises that “there is no perfect dog food for every dog. The only way to find a 'perfect fit food' is to follow basic guidelines and see what works best.” She has absolute rules and flexible guidelines for her clients, and was kind enough to share them.

ABSOLUTE: Protein greater than 30% (dry matter basis, canned foods have a different measurement), avoid bad carbs (corn, wheat especially), avoid toxins, bad chemicals, and carcinogens (e.g. onions, chocolate, ethoxyquin, BHA, BHT).

FLEXIBLE: Try to feed foods with normal moisture content (avoid dry kibble), avoid other carbs (e.g. white potato), avoid too many chemicals (unpronounceable names and things you don’t recognize as food) or too many supplements (like garlic, which is a strong herbal medicine, and is best given in measured doses).

“I am always mindful of the financial constraints, preferences and lifestyle of the owner," Dr. Royal says. "After that, I factor in the lifestyle, physical response, and the preferences of the dog (working dog? couch potato?) and their physical reaction to the food (normal stool, healthy coat, good weight…) and then the food plan for a particular animal becomes apparent.”

Incorporate moisture into your dog’s diet

Most pet owners are hesitant to give up their dog’s dry kibble for convenience or financial reasons. I consistently have owners ask me if adding water to their dog’s kibble is a good idea to boost moisture content, so I posed this question to Dr. Royal. “It may help," she says, "but it is not an ideal solution. Canned, pre-prepared raw, or home-cooked foods are still better than dry processed food.”

I feed my own dogs a varied diet and advise our clients to do the same. A high-quality, dry kibble can be a good starting point and a convenient backup for most dog parents. Whenever your schedule and checkbook allow, however, try topping the food with raw or cooked meat, steamed veggies, homemade broth, or grain-free canned food. My canine cooking recipes on pages 24-33 are intended to inspire us to look at our dogs’ nutrition in a new way. Feeding dogs shouldn’t be left up to scientists and chemical labs.

Last thoughts

Just as our two-legged children can survive eating a diet of only fast food, dogs can obviously survive on a wide variety of diets, including those heavy in carbohydrates. The gold standard AAFCO, Inc. (American Association of Feed Control Officials) feeding trials need only prove that a dog can survive for 26 weeks while eating the food. The question that group hasn’t publicly addressed, however, is whether those dogs are thriving to their full potential.

Ideally, a dog’s diet should consist primarily of fresh meat that has lots of moisture. There are many wonderful, meat-based kibble formulas on the market these days, including Canidae, Evangers, Mulligan Stew, and Solid Gold. Dr. Royal especially favors grain-free formulas by Nature’s Variety Instinct, Wellness Core, Innova EVO, and Orijen. Topping those high-quality diets with a dollop of high-quality canned food or raw meat is a good step towards adding necessary moisture and helping the food pass through the stomach’s acid bath more quickly—giving the dog’s digestive system a better chance to utilize those high-quality nutrients.

FYI ...

The less moisture a dog has in his diet, the longer the food will stay in the stomach, mixing with hydrochloric acid and losing valuable nutrients. Therein, even if you’re feeding an incredibly wonderful kibble, many of those nutrients are lost to the stomach acid. Consider this: The total digestion time of raw food is generally 4-6 hours, while dry food may take 10-12 hours to go through a dog’s digestive tract.

Dr. Royal points out, “Animals eating only processed foods (dry kibble) have been shown to have significantly decreased enzyme levels in their intestinal villi. These enzymes are essential for proper nutrient processing. Highly processed foods increase quick absorption and speed motility in a way that is not always healthful. Without proper enzymes and transit time, the GI tract can’t properly prepare and absorb nutrients. The processed food therefore alters the ability of the intestines to be an effective “border patrol,” determining which molecules are allowed to pass from the GI tract into the animal’s bloodstream.”


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Dr. Barbara Royal, DVM, owns and operates The Royal Treatment Veterinary Center, offering general as well as specialty complimentary veterinary services to her clients in the Chicago area. Read more about her practice at www.royaltreatmentveterinarycenter.com

Are CocoTherapy® Coconut Chips Different from Dehydrated Coconut Chips found in Health Food Stores?

Are CocoTherapy® Coconut Chips Different from Dehydrated Coconut Chips found in Health Food Stores?

From the Facebook Page of CocoTherapy®:

We often receive questions on the differences between organic coconut flakes you can buy at health food stores and CocoTherapy® Coconut Chips. While many of the benefits may be similar, CocoTherapy Coconut Chips are made specifically for maximum digestibility, while the traditional dehydrated coconut chips are not. What you see here may surprise you.Dehydrated coconut meat is rich in nutrients and fiber; however it can be difficult to digest for most animals. We produce our CocoTherapy Coconut Chips in a special way to be highly digestible and easily assimilated in the body, while providing all the beneficial nutrients from medium-chain fatty acids (MCFA). Unlike other dehydrated coconut chips or flakes available in your grocery aisles or even health food stores, CocoTherapy coconut chips break down easily and quickly with just water.

Proof is in the Chips

The digestive system of some animals can not tolerate the typical raw dehydrated coconut chips found in grocery stores. Feeding your pets typical dehydrated coconut chips may stress their digestive system and often times the undigested coconut chips are passed either in the animal’s stool or vomit. However, our CocoTherapy Coconut Chips were uniquely developed to be easily digestible for animals. To see how quickly CocoTherapy coconut chips break down, we took a leading dehydrated organic coconut chips brand (purchased from a popular health food store) and CocoTherapy Coconut Chips and placed them in a saucer of water.Here, you can see typical dehydrated organic coconut chips (left) and CocoTherapy Coconut Chips (right), placed in a saucer full of water:
In just a 30 seconds, the CocoTherapy Coconut Chips (right) already began to break down:

In just under a minute, the CocoTherapy Coconut Chips (right) has broken down in the water; while the other organic coconut chips (left) has no changes at all: In just three minutes, the CocoTherapy Coconut Chips (right) have completely absorbed the water and has a smooth, soft texture. The other organic coconut chips (left) have not broken down and still has water in the saucer:
CocoTherapy Coconut Chips are perfect for providing highly digestible fiber for animals with digestive disorders, IBD, colitis, while providing all the nutritional benefits of coconut oil. It is easily digested by dogs, cats, birds, and other small mammals.

Canine Noise Anxiety

It Might Not Be “Just A Noise” to your dog!

With thunderstorm season upon us and the 4th of July right around the corner, it is a good time to consider the effects loud noises can have on dogs. Noise Anxiety is a very real and very common problem for dogs across the country. The estimates vary widely, but somewhere between 5 million and 15 million dogs suffer from noise anxiety severe enough for their owners to seek help. That’s a lot of anxiety!

Symptoms

Noise anxiety can exhibit many symptoms and severity levels. On the less extreme end of the spectrum, a fear of thunder may just cause some shaking and clinging to her owner. On the other extreme, thunder may cause panicked running, destructive chewing, defecating indoors, or even jumping through a plate glass window! Here are a few symptoms of canine noise anxiety:

Symptoms of Canine Noise Anxiety
Panting	Drooling	Indoor Elimination
Whining / Barking	Hiding	Seeking Tight Spaces
Destructive Chewing	Clinging to People	Shaking / Trembling
Scratching	Not Eating	Pacing / Panicked Running

Causes

Determining what caused your dog’s noise anxiety may be difficult to pinpoint, if not impossible. If you’re lucky, you may be able to trace the start of your dog’s anxiety to a traumatic incident such as being too close to a fireworks show or too close to a lightning strike and its subsequent thunder clap. But more than likely, it won’t be anything that obvious. Your dog may have a genetic predisposition for noise anxiety. Studies have shown that some breeds have a higher incidence of noise anxiety such as Collies, Golden Retrievers and German Shepherds. For some dogs, noise anxiety gradually appears and worsens as they age for no apparent reason. For other dogs, it appears as a puppy and stays with them.

But one thing that most experts agree on… when it comes to noise anxiety, you never want to pet, coddle, or otherwise console the dog when she’s exhibiting symptoms. Your dog will most likely interpret your behavior as “You see! I do have something to be worried about!” It’s important for the people around the dog to behave normally during events that trigger the dog’s anxiety. In fact, a possible cause for noise anxiety in the first place is her owner’s nervousness or fear of some kind of noise. Most dogs are very sensitive to their owners’ moods. If her owner has a fear of thunder, she may give her owner the benefit of the doubt!

What your dog is actually experiencing with noise anxiety could also be numerous things. For some, it may be just the noise that bothers her…a dog’s hearing is far more sensitive than a person’s and some loud noises may even cause physical discomfort. But for others, it may not even be the actual noise that frightens the dog. Dogs have highly developed senses of smell…they may smell a thunderstorm long before they hear any thunder. Dogs are more sensitive to barometric pressure changes than people…wide swings in pressure may even cause pain in some dogs. Dogs also may react to the buildup of static electricity in their fur when Thunderstorms approach.

Treatments

Different treatments work for different dogs, and there is no guarantee that any one alternative is best for your dog. Besides the effectiveness at reducing symptoms, there are other issues to consider when evaluating which treatment may be best for your dog. Some treatments can be very time consuming for the owner (for example, desensitizing). Some treatments can become very expensive and pose risks of side effects (for example, ongoing medications). Here are some treatment options to consider. It’s not unusual for a combination of treatments to ultimately be the most effective for a particular dog.

1. Change the Dog’s Environment. Try creating a safe haven for your dog (such as a blanket-covered crate) or finding a location that will reduce the noise level. Try turning on music or the television to help mask the sound of the problem noise. If you know an event is coming (e.g. thunderstorm or fireworks), try giving your dog a lot of exercise beforehand. Environment changes typically do not show dramatic results, but they can help to reduce symptoms.
   
2. Pressure Wraps. This is a surprisingly simple and effective treatment for many dogs. A “pressure wrap” is anything that wraps around the dog’s torso and chest to provide a constant, gentle pressure. Why does it work? No one knows for sure but it’s likely a combination of making the dog feel comforted and secure plus distracting the dog from concentrating on whatever it fears. This treatment has been around for years and has been proven very effective for many dogs. A product like Thundershirt works very well. Pressure wraps often show good results with the first usage, however some dogs require 2, 3 or more usages before you see reduced or eliminated symptoms. A pressure wrap is inexpensive, the least time consuming, and has no risk of negative side effects.
3. Behavior Modification. Desensitization is one of the most common behavior modification tried for noise anxiety. In a nutshell, in a controlled environment, you begin by exposing your dog to a low level of the noise that bothers her. As she gets accustomed to it, you increase the levels louder and louder over time until she learns to tolerate the real deal. It’s good in theory but has limitations in practice. It’s very time consuming…if it works at all for your dog, you will likely have to give periodic treatments weekly for the rest of the dog’s life. And many dogs are too smart to react to the “staged” noise; they can tell the difference between a CD playing a thunderstorm and the real thing.
4. Medications. This is a very involved, complex area of treatment. There are a variety of prescription medications that your veterinarian may suggest. Some are administered on a regular basis for the life of the dog (Paroxetine or Fluoxetine). Some are given only at the time of an anxiety event (valium). Sometimes a combination of drugs are used…a doggy noise cocktail. Any of these options tend to be relatively expensive. The vet visits alone can run hundreds of dollars over a dog’s life. And you still need to pay for the drugs! Plus all drugs pose the risk of unwanted physical side effects, sometimes severe. Make sure you ask your vet about any potential risks with the drug(s) you’re considering.

In conclusion, you don’t have to let your dog just suffer through noise anxiety. There are treatments to try and some do not require a big commitment by you, either time or money. At a minimum, you should try mixing up the environment and using a pressure wrap. In combination, that may be all you need for your little “puppy” to weather the storms symptom free!

Courtesy of Thundershirt; makers of the patent-pending, well-designed, pressure wrap for canine anxiety.
service@thundershirt.com

Great Ideas to keep your dog cool

Find most of these products and more at the Pawhaus Pet Boutique!

Summer survival tips for a happier, heathier pup and environment!

via Raise a Green Dog! by Johann The Dog on 6/9/09

Summer is finally here, and dog am I happy! I love summer, all the fresh air, fun times outside in nature, swimming, hiking, agility, picnics, and lots more.

But there are lots of dangers out there for us pups during the dog days of summer. So we wanted to put together our top 10 green dog living survival tips, to help you have the healthiest, safest and most environmentally responsible summer ever!

Here we go....

Tip #1

Us dogs we spend a lot of time in our yards, it's an extension of our home! So be sure and keep those lawns super safe and free of harmful chemicals. Those pesticides, insecticides and herbicides are super dangerous for us dogs (and humans too). So go organic and feel free to safely enjoy your lawn and help the environment too!

Tip #2

Heat can be a killer. So take lots of precautions when having fun with activities outside. Make sure there's plenty of filtered fresh clean water available at all times. Wear some pup boots if you're pounding the pavement, it can be super hot on sensitive paw pads. Keep your pup cool with an eco-friendly cool coat and lots of shade. Cool down your pup with cool water on the paw pads and on their tummy. Not too cold though, it can be too much of a shock. And very importantly, learn the signs of heat stroke and the location of the nearest emergency vet hospital, just in case.

Tip #3

Summer is traveling time! So be sure and practice all the important safety measures when traveling, like buckling up your pup in the car, taking lots of extra filtered water from home and transporting that water in a leach proof container. And stock up on healthy organic foods for your trips. Take along those biodegradable bags to pick up the doo and help the environment. Add a first aid kit and emergency contact info to your car or vehicle. And make sure your pup is wearing their tags at all times.

Also, help us share with other folks about the dangers of leaving pups in cars, because they can heat up like ovens and become killers!

Tip #4

Contrary to pupular belief, not all dogs know how to swim coming out of the womb. We need to learn how to become confident and be safe in the water. So teach your dog to swim for safety's sake. And check out an float coat (that's what we use when we go canoing!)

Tip #5

Get your exercise in the early morning or later in the evening when it's cooler. Taking those long walks or hikes, and other activities during the cooler parts of the day will be much more fun.

Tip #6

Watch out for dangers when you're out and about. You know those puddles, retention ponds, river and streams could very well be laced with lots of lawn and farming chemicals, so try to find safer alternative places to swim, like a fun kiddie pool in the backyard, or a nice chemical free swimming pool, supervised of course! Gracie and I absolutely love our kiddie pool on a hot day!

Tip #7

Fleas and ticks love the summer weather just as much as we do. So what's a dog to do? Take healthier and safer precautions in preventing and deterring these nasty bugs. The EPA and the Natural Resource Defense Council has provided us with warnings of the dangers of many over the counter flea and tick medications. So get educated, there are safer alternatives.

Tip #8

Summer is a time to celebrate and a time for super cell storms. All that celebrating humans do can be very stressful for us pups. Loud noises, large crowds and fireworks can sometimes be way too much for some pups. And that nasty thunder and lightening can scare a pup half to death! So try and minimize these stressful situations, and look into a pheramone or homeopathic remedy that may help relieve your pup from some of the suffering of summer bangs.

Tip #9

On super hot days (like we have here in August and late July) we plan time to have fun indoors! We have fun learning new tricks. It works our brains and tires us out just as much as a long walk would. So when it's super hot, take the time to learn something new and have fun at the same time.

Then have your Mum, whip up a nice cool Homemade Frosty treat all your hard work!

Tip #10

Get out there and have fun! Enjoy your summer, the healthy way for you and the environment!

Go Hemp

History of Hemp

Cannabis sativa is the Latin name for hemp, which means "useful plant". The Columbia History of the World states that the oldest relic of human industry is a bit of hemp fabric dating back to approximately 8,000 BC. Materials made from hemp have been discovered in tombs dating back to 8,000 B.C.

Christopher Columbus sailed to America on ships rigged with hemp. Early New World explorers sailed the seas with wind driven hemp sails.

George Washington and Thomas Jefferson both grew hemp. Thomas Jefferson valued hemp so much that growing areas were included in the design plans for Monticello. He also invented hemp-processing equipment, which was used in this country for 50 years.

Americans were legally bound to grow hemp during the Colonial Era and Early Republic.

Betsy Ross sewed the first American flag from hemp.

Properties of Hemp

Hemp requires no herbicides, pesticides, fungicides and fertilizer. Hemp also restores nutrients to the soil, which are then available to the next crop planted in rotation.

Hemp is a valuable and profitable rotation crop.

The bark of the hemp stalk contains fibers, which are among the Earth's longest natural soft fibers. Hemp fiber is longer, stronger, more absorbent and more insulating than cotton fiber.

Hemp stalk contains no THC.

Textile Uses of Hemp

Hemp is an extremely fast growing crop, producing more fiber yield per acre than any other source.

Hemp can produce 250% more fiber than cotton and 600% more fiber than flax using the same amount of land without chemicals. The amount of land needed for obtaining equal yields of fiber place hemp at an advantage over other fibers.

Products made from hemp will outlast their competition by many years. Not only is hemp strong, but it also holds its shape, stretching less than any other natural fiber. This prevents hemp collars from stretching out or becoming distorted with use.

Hemp webbing creates a comfortable, non-allergenic collar for your dog.

The longer hemp collars are worn and washed, the softer the fabric becomes. Hemp is also naturally resistant to mold and ultraviolet light.

Hemp collars retain colors.

Due to the porous nature of the fiber, hemp will dye and retain its color better than any fabric including cotton. The porous nature of hemp allows it to breathe making it cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Dog beds made from hemp fabrics keep your dog more comfortable year round.

Pulp Uses of Hemp

Forests in the United States are being cut down approximately three times faster than we can replant them.

It takes 20 years to grow a tree suitable to produce pulp used to make paper. It takes 4 months to grow hemp suitable to produce pulp used to make paper.

Hemp produces more pulp per acre than timber. Estimates are as high as 4 times as much pulp per acre than trees.

Much of the world's paper was made from hemp until about 1850. Now all newspapers, copy paper, magazines, Etc. are produced from wood pulp.Hemp pulp can be converted to paper with less acids, and chlorine then wood pulp. Less bleaching helps preserve our natural environment.

Hemp paper lasts longer then wood paper and contains less acids and chemicals. Hemp paper does not yellow with age. Hemp paper as old as 1,500 years has been discovered.

Many countries use hemp paper for important documents such as archives, historical documents, financial notes, and deeds.

Hemp paper can be recycled more times than paper made from wood pulp.

Other Uses of Hemp

Hemp has an output equivalent to around 1000 gallons of methanol per acre per year. Methanol used today is mainly made from natural gas, a fossil fuel. Methanol is currently being studied as a primary fuel for automobiles.Hemp plants produce more fiber and protein than most other plants.

Hemp oils and seeds are used as a food source throughout the world. Hemp seeds may be used to create flour and butter substitutes.

Japanese use hemp seeds as a condiment. Next time you are in a Japanese restaurant, look for the little bottle of ground spices called Togarashi. Reading the ingredient label of this popular Japanese spice, you will see "Roasted Hemp Seeds".

Hemp is a true wood substitute. Basically, anything made from wood, can be made from hemp.

Hemp fiberboard produced by Washington State University was found to be twice as strong as wood-based fiberboard.

Hemp in the United States

The United States has not granted any hemp permits in 40 years. Canada, which is becoming an active leader in hemp production and research, has a rapidly expanding hemp industry. China and Europe have thriving hemp industries.

Many states are investigating the use of hemp. Vermont, Hawaii, and North Dakota have legislated for research to investigate opportunities of industrial hemp farming.

Benefits of Hemp Collars and products

Earth Friendly
Comfortable and Soft Feel for your Dog
Durable and Color Fast
Machine Washable (line dry to protect the buckles)
Hypo-allergenic
Last, but not least, another "Cool Dud for your Dog".

Click Here to View Our Line of Dog Hemp Products

How Often Should I Wash my Dog?

Most advice you find on the internet recommends washing your dog just several times per year!Either these people have outdoor dogs or the articles were written a long time ago when the quality of pet shampoos was very poor! Times have changed!

Today, dog’s enjoy shampoos and conditioners that are on par with the best human shampoos- that don’t have harsh chemicals and that don’t strip the hair of all of it’s oils.The arguments against washing your dog too often are generally about stripping the coat of natural oils. The more often you wash something, the more often the sebum (oil) is going to be removed.

Think about your own hair. If you don’t wash it, what happens? It gets oily. Is the oil good for your hair? Probably, but we wash our hair everyday anyway so that it’s clean!

There are several factors you should consider when deciding how often to wash your dog which include:

1. Does your dog live indoors or outdoors, and does your dog sleep in your bed?
   If your dog lives in your house with you and more importantly, if he/she sleeps in your bed, then you are probably going to wash your dog regularly–depending on the breed anywhere from once a week to once a month. I know this is radical thinking, but, if your dog sits on your sofa, you probably don’t want him dragging in dirt, poop, insects and other grime onto your sofa. So, the trade off is that your dog’s coat ~might ~ be marginally drier but you will have a fresh smelling dog that you can cuddle without the fear that gross stuff is getting into the sheets.
2. Breed of dog.
   Dogs that have dry skin can be bathed less frequently than dogs with oily skin. Harsh-textured coats repel dirt pretty well so they don’t get as dirty as a soft-coated dog. Dogs like Maltese, Yorkies, Afghans and Shitzus should be bathed once a week. Harsh-coated breeds, like Shelties and Collies, can be bathed once a month. If you’re not sure, remember, a clean dog is a happy dog! One of my dog’s is a Maltese and I can’t imagine washing her less than once every week. Little white dogs pick up lots of dirt and by weeks end they are looking brown instead of white. Also, I hate to mention it but long-coated dogs get those famous cling on poops stuck to their bottoms.My other dog, a Westie, who has a thicker coat, doesn’t lget so dirty, but, I have to wash her every week due to the next point– allergies.
3. Is anyone in your household allergic to dogs?
   If so, you SHOULD groom & bathe them as often as possible. According to the American Lung Association, doing so will help remove the dander that accumulates on a pet’s fur.I am allergic to one of my dogs and when I don’t wash her once a week I get wheezy and sneezy.
4. What activities does your dog partake in?
   Do you take your dog to the dog park? Does you dog play in the sand or dirt? Does your dog roll in the grass or go swimming or hiking? What about sniffing butts, eating poop or drooling?Well, if you have a normal dog, she probably partakes in several of the above activities– all of which warrant regular bathing. Again, you have to think of the trade off. Your dog’s coat may be marginally drier. HOWEVER, he will be cleaner, smell better, and most important you will be more likely to give a clean dog lots of love. Those smelly dogs we tend to keep at arms length.
5. Does your dog suffer from itchy skin?
   Unlike humans who absorb most environmental allergens through their noses and mouths, dogs tend to absorb allergens through the skin. Weekly bathing can prevent itchiness , washing allergens away before they get a chance to penetrate the skin.

So at the conclusion of all of this — the answer for MOST dogs is to wash them once every week to once a month, depending on the above circumstances.But remember, use a gentle pet shampoo and conditioner . Do not use your own shampoo.

Click here for an article of why you should not use your own shampoo on your dog. Also, if you simply can’t wash your dog for a prolonged period of time you can use a dry shampoo, like Dry Dog Instant Clean - This is a really effective spray on bath replacement that helps to get rid of bad odors.

Gnawing Problems

Is your dog chewing you out of house and home?

Dogs tend to chew or gnaw on inappropriate objects when they're bored, anxious, or craving attention. Designating play zones throughout your house and equipping each with a few pup-friendly chew toys and treats can cut down on the destruction. If you catch your dog in the midst of destructive chewing, take the item from him or her and walk away. On the other hand, if your dog is happily chomping on a toy, stick, or bone, reinforce the good behavior with enthusiastic praise and petting.


Source: DogAge.com

Quick Tip Before Buckling Up

Whether your furry friend rides in a belt harness or a car seat while on road trips, I wanted to point out a quick tip for safety. Even if you prefer collars for walking, don't clip these to a seat belt or car seat attachment.

Personally, I don't believe in traveling with an unsecured pet period and, under no circumstances, should you drive around with a restraining device attached to your dog's collar. (I don't need to give you the graphic visual, but I'm sure you can picture what happens if you slam on the brakes.) Next time you're ready to hit the road, stock a harness just in case or, invest in a special version that attaches straight to the car safety device from your walk time, too!

Source: PetSugar

***PRODUCT BUZZ*** Check out the great products we carry to keep your pup safe, secure and CLEAN in the car!***

Today at Barkability.com

Silly Sock Puppet Dog Toy
Everyone, Duncan Grey. Duncan, everyone.
Sniff around @ The Pawhaus Pet Boutique. ($32)

Thanks to Chris and MacKenzie for posting about our Monkeys! If you haven't heard about them yet - Barkability(tm) is a dog shopping blog. They sniff around and bring back stuff worth barking about! Check them out today!

Pet First Aid Tips

Emergency treatment and first aid for pets should never be used as a substitute for veterinary care. But it may save your pet's life before you can get your pet to a veterinarian.

Poisoning and Exposure to Toxins

Poisoning is a pet emergency that causes a great deal of confusion for pet owners. In general, any products that are harmful for people are also harmful for pets. Examples include cleaning products, rodent poisons and antifreeze. But you also need to be aware of common food items that may be harmful to your pet. The AVMA brochure What You Should Know About Household Hazards to Pets offers a summary of what foods and common household items may pose a danger to your pet. Additional information and examples can be found on the other Web sites listed in this section.

If your pet's skin or eyes are exposed to a toxic product (such as many cleaning products), check the product label for the instructions for people exposed to the product; if the label instructs you to wash your hands with soap and water if you're exposed, then wash your pet's skin with soap and water (don't get any into its eyes, mouth or nose). If the label tells you to flush the skin or eyes with water, do this for your pet as soon as possible (if you can do it safely), and call a veterinarian immediately.

If you know your pet has consumed something that may be harmful, or if the animal is having seizures, losing consciousness, is unconscious or is having difficulty breathing, telephone your veterinarian, emergency veterinary clinic or the Animal Poison Control Center hotline (888.426.4435 – available 365 days/year, 24 hours/day) immediately. There is a fee for the consultation.

If possible, have the following information available:

• Species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved
• Symptoms
• Name/description of the substance that is in question; the amount the animal was exposed to; and the length of time of the exposure (how long it's been since your pet ate it or was exposed to it).
• Have the product container/packaging available for reference.

Collect any material your pet may have vomited or chewed, and place it in a plastic sealable bag to take with you when you bring your animal in for veterinary treatment.
Additional Information on Animal Poisoning:The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) offers additional information and resources:
Animal Poison Control Center
Animal Poison Control FAQs

Another resource is Killer Grapes and Other Concerns in Animal Poison Control, available on the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine's Web site.

Seizures

• Keep your pet away from any objects (including furniture) that might hurt it. Do not try to restrain the pet.
• Time the seizure (they usually last 2-3 minutes).
• After the seizure has stopped, keep your pet as warm and quiet as possible and contact your veterinarian.
  

Fractures

• Muzzle your pet.
• Gently lay your pet on a flat surface for support.
• While transporting your injured pet to a veterinarian, use a stretcher (you can use a board or other firm surface as a stretcher, or use a throw rug or blanket as a sling). If possible, secure the pet to the stretcher (make sure you don't put pressure on the injured area or the animal's chest) for transport—this may be as simple as wrapping a blanket around them.
• You can attempt to set the fracture with a homemade splint, but remember that a badly-placed splint may cause more harm than good. If in doubt, it is always best to leave the bandaging and splinting to a veterinarian.

Bleeding (external)

• Muzzle your pet.
• Press a clean, thick gauze pad over the wound, and keep pressure over the wound with your hand until the blood starts clotting. This will often take several minutes for the clot to be strong enough to stop the bleeding. Instead of checking it every few seconds to see if it has clotted, hold pressure on it for a minimum of 3 minutes and then check it.
• If bleeding is severe and on the legs, apply a tourniquet (using an elastic band or gauze) between the wound and the body, and apply a bandage and pressure over the wound. Loosen the tourniquet for 20 seconds every 15-20 minutes. Severe bleeding can quickly be life-threatening—get your animal to a veterinarian immediately if this occurs.
  

Bleeding (internal)

• Symptoms: bleeding from nose, mouth, rectum, coughing up blood, blood in urine, pale gums, collapse, weak and rapid pulse.
• Keep animal as warm and quiet as possible and transport immediately to a veterinarian.
  

Burns

Chemical

• Muzzle the animal.
• Flush burn immediately with large quantities of water.

Severe

• Muzzle the animal.
• Quickly apply ice water compress to burned area.
  

Choking

• Symptoms: difficulty breathing, excessive pawing at the mouth, choking sounds when breathing or coughing, blue-tinged lips/tongue.
• Use caution – a choking pet is more likely to bite in its panic.
• If the pet can still breathe, keep it calm and get it to a veterinarian.
• Look into the pet's mouth to see if a foreign object is visible. If you see an object, gently try to remove it with pliers or tweezers, but be careful not to push the object further down the throat. Don't spend a lot of time trying to remove it if it's not easy to reach—don't delay, and get your pet to a veterinarian immediately.
• If you can't remove the object or your pet collapses, place both hands on the side of your pet's rib cage and apply firm quick pressure, or lay your pet on its side and strike the rib cage firmly with the palm of your hand 3-4 times. The idea behind this is to sharply push air out of their lungs and push the object out from behind. Keep repeating this until the object is dislodged or until you arrive at the veterinarian's office.
  

Heatstroke

• Never leave your pet in the car on warm days. The temperature inside a car can rise very quickly to dangerous levels, even on milder days. Pets can succumb to heatstroke very easily and must be treated very quickly to give them the best chance of survival.
• If you cannot immediately get your pet to a veterinarian, move it to a shaded area and out of direct sunlight.
• Place a cool or cold, wet towel around its neck and head (do not cover your pet's eyes, nose or mouth).
• Remove the towel, wring it out, and rewet it and rewrap it every few minutes as you cool the animal.
• Pour or use a hose to keep water running over the animal's body (especially the abdomen and between the hind legs), and use your hands to massage its legs and sweep the water away as it absorbs the body heat.
• Transport the pet to a veterinarian as soon as possible.
  

Shock

• Symptoms: weak pulse, shallow breathing, nervousness, dazed eyes.
• Usually follows severe injury or extreme fright.
• Keep animal restrained, warm and quiet.
• If animal is unconscious, keep head level with rest of body.
• Transport the pet immediately to a veterinarian.
  

What to do if your pet is not breathing

• Stay calm
• If possible, have another person call the veterinarian while you help your pet.
• Check to see if your pet is unconscious.
• Open your pet's airway by gently grasping its tongue and pulling it forward (out of the mouth) until it is flat. Check the animal's throat to see if there are any foreign objects blocking the airway (see the section above on Choking)
• Perform rescue breathing by closing your pet's mouth (hold it closed with your hand) and breathing with your mouth directly into its nose until you see the animal's chest expand.
• Once the chest expands, continue the rescue breathing once every 4 or 5 seconds.
• What to do if your pet has no heartbeatDo not begin chest compressions until you've secured an airway and started rescue breathing (see the section above, What to do if your pet is not breathing).
• Gently lay your pet on its right side on a firm surface. The heart is located in the lower half of the chest on the left side, just behind the elbow of the front left leg. Place one hand underneath the pet's chest for support and place the other hand over the heart.
• For dogs, press down gently on your pet's heart about one inch for medium-sized dogs; press harder for larger animals and with less force for smaller animals.
• To massage the hearts of cats and other tiny pets, cradle your hand around the animal's chest so your thumb is on the left side of the chest and your fingers are on the right side of the chest, and compress the chest by squeezing it between your thumb and fingers.
• Press down 80-120 times per minute for larger animals and 100-150 times per minute for smaller ones.
• Don't perform rescue breathing and chest compressions at the same exact time; alternate the chest compressions with the rescue breaths, or work as a team with another person so one person performs chest compressions for 4-5 seconds and stops long enough to allow the other person to give one rescue breath.
• Continue until you can hear a heartbeat and your pet is breathing regularly, or you have arrived at the veterinary clinic and they can take over the resuscitation attempts.
• Please remember that your pet's likelihood of surviving with resuscitation is very low.
• However, in an emergency it may give your pet its only chance.

Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment.

Tips for enjoying the dog park

Tips for Enjoying the Dog Park
by Allie Thomas

I love going to the dog park. I feel good giving my dog a place to run, socialize and play with other dogs and I know he likes it. I also am very happy when we leave and he is very tired and relaxes for hours after we get home. After being a dog park regular though, I continuously witness people involved in “incidents” at the park and that is one thing about the dog park I do not enjoy! I used to think that all of the fights at the dog park happened between the dogs, but the more I go to the dog park, the more I am seeing fights between the humans! Below are some pointers to help make sure you and your dog enjoy the dog park and avoid as many “incidents” as possible!

1. Read the dog park rules. Many are posted outside of the park or on the parks website. People get very upset when they see someone breaking one of the rules and I have seen many people get called out on it. Since there is generally no one working at the park to enforce the rules other owners will take on that role and depending on the person it may not be handled diplomatically. The best way to avoid a fight at the dog park is to know and follow the rules.
2. Know your dog. If your dog does not get along with certain dog temperaments or sizes, it is up to you to stand outside of the park and watch the action to make sure it will be a good fit for your pup. If you are unsure or a certain dog in the park makes you nervous, hang out with your pooch outside of the park and play until that dog leaves and you feel more comfortable. Your dog is not equip to decide whether or not he should go into the dog park so it is up to you to make the best decision for your dog and the other dogs there. If you bring your dog in, knowing he may fight with another dog already in there, you will only be setting you and your dog up for trouble. Also, if your dog has serious dog aggression please don’t bring him to the dog park. Seek professional assistance to help him get over the problem first!
3. Pick up your dogs poop! It is a major dog park no-no to leave your dog’s poop on the ground. Other dogs could roll or step in it and then you are the one in deep doo-doo as their owner will be sure to let you know how unhappy they are with you! So pick it up! It is easy and most dog parks even have a supply of bags you can use if you did not bring your own.
4. Be very careful touching other people’s dogs. If another dog is humping your pup and you run over and throw that dog off of yours you are really asking for a fight. You would be much better off calling your dog over to get them out of the situation or asking that dog owner to remove their dog from yours. You would not run up and grab another person’s child, right? Don’t do it to their dog either or you will be sure to hear from them and they won’t be happy with you! If another dog in the park is really bothering your pup and the owner does not seem to care, you will be better off leaving the park with your dog and coming back another time when he will have more fun too. The exception to this rule is if a fight is breaking out. You may need to grab other dogs to keep them all safe and from hurting each other and most dog owners will be totally fine with that, maybe even thankful for your help!
5. Try hard not to get involved if you do not like how someone is training or talking to their dog. As a trainer I have often been tempted to give people suggestions at the dog park, but it is not usually received well and can be a sensitive subject for people. Unless someone asks you how you have trained your dog to be so well behaved I would not offer my opinion or make any negative comments about their dogs behavior. I have also witnessed people who I felt were being inappropriately harsh with their dog. When approached by another dog owner about the issue, things get ugly quickly. Imagine, if that person is not being nice to their own dog, they are certainly not going to be nice to a stranger who approaches them about it. If another owner is making you feel uncomfortable, your best bet is to grab your pup and leave. If the park clears out every time that person shows up they may start to get the point!

Source: The Swanky Pup

February is Pet Dental Month

Brushing Your Dog's Teeth -

It is Mandatory for a Healthy Pet! February is National Pet Dental Health Month. There are so many aspects of keeping your dog healthy, but in my opinion, none is more important than brushing their teeth. The American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS) estimates that eighty percent of dogs have periodontal disease by the age of three. A few years ago, the idea of brushing your dog’s teeth was nearly unheard of. While it is gaining popularity, the majority of pet owners still do not brush their dogs’ teeth on a regular basis.

Objections to tooth-brushing:

1. I only give her dry dog food so I don’t need to brush her teeth: Unfortunately most dry dog foods have high starch content. Sugar and starches combine with the bacteria in the mouth and produce acids. These acids can eat away at the enamel on the tooth in addition to causing plaque build-up.
2. My dog doesn’t like it: When I was a kid, I didn’t like brushing my teeth, but it wasn’t a choice. It is part of a healthy lifestyle. If you let your dog make all the decisions in your house, it would be a disaster!
3. I don’t need to; I give them bones and chew toys: This is an equivalent approach to only chewing gum for your personal dental hygiene. You won’t find a dentist that recommends that approach! It is a nice addition but can’t do the job alone.
4. I just put an additive in the water: This is an equivalent approach to only using a mouth rinse for your own personal hygiene, except not even as good because your dog isn’t gargling and rinsing. Again, a nice addition but not sufficient by itself.

If you don’t brush your dog’s teeth, plaque will build up on the teeth, break off, and be absorbed into the bloodstream. This can lead to blockage in the arteries causing heart disease and kidney problems.

Hopefully, now I’ve convinced you that brushing is imperative. Here are some things you should know:

1. Brush at least three times per week to get maximum benefits.
2. Don’t use human toothpaste unless you have taught your dog to spit! Look on the back of your toothpaste. You will most likely find a statement that it should not be ingested. This is because it contains soap. Soap creates foam, which gives people the perception that the product is cleaning but is not indicative of the cleaning power of a product (it is for marketing purposes: perception is reality). Toothpaste designed specifically for pets does not contain soap; it won’t foam up; and it can be swallowed safely.
3. Replace the toothbrush when the bristles become frayed or every 3 months, as the brush will start to harbor microorganisms.
4. Follow teeth brushing with praise and an award so he/she looks forward to it next time.The American Animal Hospital Association says, “proper dental care may add as much as five years to your pet's life!" (http://www.healthypet.com/library_view.aspx?id=142). It only takes about one minute. Isn’t increasing your dog’s life expectancy worth a few minutes per week?

***PRODUCT BUZZ***

You can start your pets brushing routine right here at the Pawhaus Pet Boutique. We carry Cain & Able Kissable Toothbrush sets that will help your dog ward of bad breath, gum disease, multiple infections, and heart disease by consistently brushing your dog's teeth.
The unique design of the KissAble toothbrush makes it easy to clean all three sides of the tooth with one stroke.
The soft bristles massage the gums while the firmer bristles clean teeth.
The vanilla flavored toothpaste is All Natural and is great for dogs and their people! Get yours today!

Source: http://www.cainandablecollection.com/blog.asp

What Not to Wear

I admit there's plenty of fashionable (and bizarre) dog clothing out there, but here's one of the most common questions I get: "Dogs have fur, isn't it silly to put anything else on them?" Well, the answer I give without fail is vague, but true: It depends. While a Samoyed in Minnesota may not need a heavy coat, it's possible that a Chihuahua may need one on a chilly night in the Valley. As a general guideline, smaller dogs with shorter coats will be more likely to need that extra layer than a larger, long-haired pet. The best way to tell what your animal needs is to watch his behavior. If your Italian Greyhound is shivering or trying to enter every open door on his evening walk around the city, chances are, he'd appreciate an extra layer. Remember, more activity makes your pets warmer just like running will make you break into a sweat faster than a leisurely stroll, so a pup sitting outside will get colder than when chasing his pals around a NYC dog park. Use your judgment and don't let anyone else decide for you.

Source: http://www.petsugar.com/2557597

Grapes of Intestinal Wrath

Grapes and raisins, although healthy and popular snacks for people, can cause serious health problems in dogs. Although the exact reason why they're toxic remains unknown, even small doses can cause vomiting, diarrhea, fatigue, and abdominal pain and can lead to kidney damage and even kidney failure. After ingesting these fruits, dogs show increased levels of nitrogen, creatinine, and phosphorous in their blood, which indicates impaired kidney function. If your dog succeeds in sneaking any of these snacks, a swift trip to the vet can offset potentially serious health complications.
Pet Tip from: Dog Age September 25, 2008

Dog Diseases and Illnesses – Oral Disease

Watch for the following oral disease symptoms in your dog:

• Excess plaque and calculus (dental tartar) deposits on your dog's teeth cause bad breath. Without treatment, this could lead to painful gum and bone infections.
• It is perfectly normal for young dogs to lose their "baby" teeth, just like children do. After the "adult" teeth have grown in, tooth loss becomes a great concern for canine health. Tooth loss is caused by an infection of the tissues and bones surrounding the teeth. Once this infection starts, it is irreversible.
• Bleeding gums could indicate dog health problems known as pyorrhea or gingivitis. Pyorrhea causes inflamed and infected gums that could eventually cause kidney infections or endocarditis in older dogs. Gingivitis is an inflammation of the gum line from food particles.
• Your dog should not have difficulty chewing on hard foods or toys. Sensitive teeth or gums could indicate a tendency towards pyorrhea or gingivitis.

PRODUCT BUZZ: Check out our Kissable Toothbrush and Paste Set! Help your dog ward of bad breath, gum disease, multiple infections, and heart disease by consistently brushing your dog's teeth. The unique design of the KissAble toothbrush makes it easy to clean all three sides of the tooth with one stroke.
The soft bristles massage the gums while the firmer bristles clean teeth.
The vanilla flavored toothpaste is All Natural and is great for dogs and their people! Order your pet one today!

How to Stop Black Dog Syndrome

From Dog Age



Unless you've worked in an animal shelter, you've probably never heard of Black Dog Syndrome -- a term that refers to the difficulty shelters have finding families for dark-coated dogs. Whether it's due to superstition or to visions of black hair on light-colored sofas, rugs, and clothes, too many of these lovable dogs are missing out on good homes and happy lives. So if you've been toying with the idea of adopting a black Lab, poodle, or any other dark-haired beauty, there's really no better time than now to give it some serious consideration.