Pet First Aid Tips

Emergency treatment and first aid for pets should never be used as a substitute for veterinary care. But it may save your pet's life before you can get your pet to a veterinarian.

Poisoning and Exposure to Toxins

Poisoning is a pet emergency that causes a great deal of confusion for pet owners. In general, any products that are harmful for people are also harmful for pets. Examples include cleaning products, rodent poisons and antifreeze. But you also need to be aware of common food items that may be harmful to your pet. The AVMA brochure What You Should Know About Household Hazards to Pets offers a summary of what foods and common household items may pose a danger to your pet. Additional information and examples can be found on the other Web sites listed in this section.

If your pet's skin or eyes are exposed to a toxic product (such as many cleaning products), check the product label for the instructions for people exposed to the product; if the label instructs you to wash your hands with soap and water if you're exposed, then wash your pet's skin with soap and water (don't get any into its eyes, mouth or nose). If the label tells you to flush the skin or eyes with water, do this for your pet as soon as possible (if you can do it safely), and call a veterinarian immediately.

If you know your pet has consumed something that may be harmful, or if the animal is having seizures, losing consciousness, is unconscious or is having difficulty breathing, telephone your veterinarian, emergency veterinary clinic or the Animal Poison Control Center hotline (888.426.4435 – available 365 days/year, 24 hours/day) immediately. There is a fee for the consultation.

If possible, have the following information available:

• Species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved
• Symptoms
• Name/description of the substance that is in question; the amount the animal was exposed to; and the length of time of the exposure (how long it's been since your pet ate it or was exposed to it).
• Have the product container/packaging available for reference.

Collect any material your pet may have vomited or chewed, and place it in a plastic sealable bag to take with you when you bring your animal in for veterinary treatment.
Additional Information on Animal Poisoning:The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) offers additional information and resources:
Animal Poison Control Center
Animal Poison Control FAQs

Another resource is Killer Grapes and Other Concerns in Animal Poison Control, available on the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine's Web site.

Seizures

• Keep your pet away from any objects (including furniture) that might hurt it. Do not try to restrain the pet.
• Time the seizure (they usually last 2-3 minutes).
• After the seizure has stopped, keep your pet as warm and quiet as possible and contact your veterinarian.
  

Fractures

• Muzzle your pet.
• Gently lay your pet on a flat surface for support.
• While transporting your injured pet to a veterinarian, use a stretcher (you can use a board or other firm surface as a stretcher, or use a throw rug or blanket as a sling). If possible, secure the pet to the stretcher (make sure you don't put pressure on the injured area or the animal's chest) for transport—this may be as simple as wrapping a blanket around them.
• You can attempt to set the fracture with a homemade splint, but remember that a badly-placed splint may cause more harm than good. If in doubt, it is always best to leave the bandaging and splinting to a veterinarian.

Bleeding (external)

• Muzzle your pet.
• Press a clean, thick gauze pad over the wound, and keep pressure over the wound with your hand until the blood starts clotting. This will often take several minutes for the clot to be strong enough to stop the bleeding. Instead of checking it every few seconds to see if it has clotted, hold pressure on it for a minimum of 3 minutes and then check it.
• If bleeding is severe and on the legs, apply a tourniquet (using an elastic band or gauze) between the wound and the body, and apply a bandage and pressure over the wound. Loosen the tourniquet for 20 seconds every 15-20 minutes. Severe bleeding can quickly be life-threatening—get your animal to a veterinarian immediately if this occurs.
  

Bleeding (internal)

• Symptoms: bleeding from nose, mouth, rectum, coughing up blood, blood in urine, pale gums, collapse, weak and rapid pulse.
• Keep animal as warm and quiet as possible and transport immediately to a veterinarian.
  

Burns

Chemical

• Muzzle the animal.
• Flush burn immediately with large quantities of water.

Severe

• Muzzle the animal.
• Quickly apply ice water compress to burned area.
  

Choking

• Symptoms: difficulty breathing, excessive pawing at the mouth, choking sounds when breathing or coughing, blue-tinged lips/tongue.
• Use caution – a choking pet is more likely to bite in its panic.
• If the pet can still breathe, keep it calm and get it to a veterinarian.
• Look into the pet's mouth to see if a foreign object is visible. If you see an object, gently try to remove it with pliers or tweezers, but be careful not to push the object further down the throat. Don't spend a lot of time trying to remove it if it's not easy to reach—don't delay, and get your pet to a veterinarian immediately.
• If you can't remove the object or your pet collapses, place both hands on the side of your pet's rib cage and apply firm quick pressure, or lay your pet on its side and strike the rib cage firmly with the palm of your hand 3-4 times. The idea behind this is to sharply push air out of their lungs and push the object out from behind. Keep repeating this until the object is dislodged or until you arrive at the veterinarian's office.
  

Heatstroke

• Never leave your pet in the car on warm days. The temperature inside a car can rise very quickly to dangerous levels, even on milder days. Pets can succumb to heatstroke very easily and must be treated very quickly to give them the best chance of survival.
• If you cannot immediately get your pet to a veterinarian, move it to a shaded area and out of direct sunlight.
• Place a cool or cold, wet towel around its neck and head (do not cover your pet's eyes, nose or mouth).
• Remove the towel, wring it out, and rewet it and rewrap it every few minutes as you cool the animal.
• Pour or use a hose to keep water running over the animal's body (especially the abdomen and between the hind legs), and use your hands to massage its legs and sweep the water away as it absorbs the body heat.
• Transport the pet to a veterinarian as soon as possible.
  

Shock

• Symptoms: weak pulse, shallow breathing, nervousness, dazed eyes.
• Usually follows severe injury or extreme fright.
• Keep animal restrained, warm and quiet.
• If animal is unconscious, keep head level with rest of body.
• Transport the pet immediately to a veterinarian.
  

What to do if your pet is not breathing

• Stay calm
• If possible, have another person call the veterinarian while you help your pet.
• Check to see if your pet is unconscious.
• Open your pet's airway by gently grasping its tongue and pulling it forward (out of the mouth) until it is flat. Check the animal's throat to see if there are any foreign objects blocking the airway (see the section above on Choking)
• Perform rescue breathing by closing your pet's mouth (hold it closed with your hand) and breathing with your mouth directly into its nose until you see the animal's chest expand.
• Once the chest expands, continue the rescue breathing once every 4 or 5 seconds.
• What to do if your pet has no heartbeatDo not begin chest compressions until you've secured an airway and started rescue breathing (see the section above, What to do if your pet is not breathing).
• Gently lay your pet on its right side on a firm surface. The heart is located in the lower half of the chest on the left side, just behind the elbow of the front left leg. Place one hand underneath the pet's chest for support and place the other hand over the heart.
• For dogs, press down gently on your pet's heart about one inch for medium-sized dogs; press harder for larger animals and with less force for smaller animals.
• To massage the hearts of cats and other tiny pets, cradle your hand around the animal's chest so your thumb is on the left side of the chest and your fingers are on the right side of the chest, and compress the chest by squeezing it between your thumb and fingers.
• Press down 80-120 times per minute for larger animals and 100-150 times per minute for smaller ones.
• Don't perform rescue breathing and chest compressions at the same exact time; alternate the chest compressions with the rescue breaths, or work as a team with another person so one person performs chest compressions for 4-5 seconds and stops long enough to allow the other person to give one rescue breath.
• Continue until you can hear a heartbeat and your pet is breathing regularly, or you have arrived at the veterinary clinic and they can take over the resuscitation attempts.
• Please remember that your pet's likelihood of surviving with resuscitation is very low.
• However, in an emergency it may give your pet its only chance.

Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment.

Tips for enjoying the dog park

Tips for Enjoying the Dog Park
by Allie Thomas

I love going to the dog park. I feel good giving my dog a place to run, socialize and play with other dogs and I know he likes it. I also am very happy when we leave and he is very tired and relaxes for hours after we get home. After being a dog park regular though, I continuously witness people involved in “incidents” at the park and that is one thing about the dog park I do not enjoy! I used to think that all of the fights at the dog park happened between the dogs, but the more I go to the dog park, the more I am seeing fights between the humans! Below are some pointers to help make sure you and your dog enjoy the dog park and avoid as many “incidents” as possible!

1. Read the dog park rules. Many are posted outside of the park or on the parks website. People get very upset when they see someone breaking one of the rules and I have seen many people get called out on it. Since there is generally no one working at the park to enforce the rules other owners will take on that role and depending on the person it may not be handled diplomatically. The best way to avoid a fight at the dog park is to know and follow the rules.
2. Know your dog. If your dog does not get along with certain dog temperaments or sizes, it is up to you to stand outside of the park and watch the action to make sure it will be a good fit for your pup. If you are unsure or a certain dog in the park makes you nervous, hang out with your pooch outside of the park and play until that dog leaves and you feel more comfortable. Your dog is not equip to decide whether or not he should go into the dog park so it is up to you to make the best decision for your dog and the other dogs there. If you bring your dog in, knowing he may fight with another dog already in there, you will only be setting you and your dog up for trouble. Also, if your dog has serious dog aggression please don’t bring him to the dog park. Seek professional assistance to help him get over the problem first!
3. Pick up your dogs poop! It is a major dog park no-no to leave your dog’s poop on the ground. Other dogs could roll or step in it and then you are the one in deep doo-doo as their owner will be sure to let you know how unhappy they are with you! So pick it up! It is easy and most dog parks even have a supply of bags you can use if you did not bring your own.
4. Be very careful touching other people’s dogs. If another dog is humping your pup and you run over and throw that dog off of yours you are really asking for a fight. You would be much better off calling your dog over to get them out of the situation or asking that dog owner to remove their dog from yours. You would not run up and grab another person’s child, right? Don’t do it to their dog either or you will be sure to hear from them and they won’t be happy with you! If another dog in the park is really bothering your pup and the owner does not seem to care, you will be better off leaving the park with your dog and coming back another time when he will have more fun too. The exception to this rule is if a fight is breaking out. You may need to grab other dogs to keep them all safe and from hurting each other and most dog owners will be totally fine with that, maybe even thankful for your help!
5. Try hard not to get involved if you do not like how someone is training or talking to their dog. As a trainer I have often been tempted to give people suggestions at the dog park, but it is not usually received well and can be a sensitive subject for people. Unless someone asks you how you have trained your dog to be so well behaved I would not offer my opinion or make any negative comments about their dogs behavior. I have also witnessed people who I felt were being inappropriately harsh with their dog. When approached by another dog owner about the issue, things get ugly quickly. Imagine, if that person is not being nice to their own dog, they are certainly not going to be nice to a stranger who approaches them about it. If another owner is making you feel uncomfortable, your best bet is to grab your pup and leave. If the park clears out every time that person shows up they may start to get the point!

Source: The Swanky Pup

Cocoa Mulch Warning

As the warmer weather approaches (or, at least for some of us the dream of warmer days) here is a warning for people (and pups) who love to dig around in the garden:

Please tell every dog or cat owner you know. Even if you don'thave a pet, please pass this to those who do.

Over the weekend the doting owner of two young lab mixes purchased Cocoa Mulch from Target to use in their garden. They loved the way it smelled and it was advertised to keep cats away from their garden. Their dog Calypso decided that the mulch smelled good enoughto eat and devoured a large helping. S he vomited a few times which was typical when she eats something new but wasn't acting lethargic in anyway.

The next day, Mom woke up and took Calypso out for her morning walk . Half way through the walk, she had a seizure and died instantly.

Although the mulch had NO warnings printed on the label, upon further investigation on the company's website, this product is HIGHLY toxic to dogs and cats.

Cocoa Mulch is manufactured by Hershey's, and they claim that

'It is true that studies have shown that 50% of the dogs that eat Cocoa Mulch can suffer physical harm to a variety of degrees (depending on each individual dog). However, 98% of all dogs won't eatit.'

This Snopes site gives the following information:http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoamulch.asp

Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called ' Theobromine'. It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Theobromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline.

A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.

Monday Madness

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Don't forget to check back next Monday for the next big item listed!!!

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Monday Madness

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Relocating With Pets

Moving to a new city can be exciting and stressful at thesame time. When you add in a pet, there's a little moreplanning to be done too. Here are a few things to preparefor before you relocate with your animal friends:

• Research local licensing regulations and pet laws. For example, some municipalities have restrictions on how many pets a household may keep, or breed-specific legislation that restricts the types of dogs allowed.
• If you're renting: finding long-term housing that allows pets can be a real challenge, so start early. Prepare references for your pet from your current landlord, veterinarian, dog trainer, etc.. You can use this to demonstrate to potential landlords that you are a responsible pet owner. More detailed information on renting with pets is available from http://www.petfriendlyrentals.ca/renters/rentingtips.php
• Leave yourself lots of time to find out if your pet will need special documentation to come with you. This is common, for instance, when you move to another country.
• Ensure your pet is healthy and ready for the move. Keep his or her vaccinations up-to-date and ask your vet to prepare any documentation you may need for your move.
• Keep your pet's important records close at hand when you move. This includes license tag numbers, microchip and tattoo numbers, vaccination & health records, record of prescription medications, and your vet's name and contact information.
• When you choose your new home you may wish to look for "pet-friendly" amenities that are close by, such as: vet clinics, groomers, doggy daycares, pet-sitting facilities, pet supply stores, parks and pathways (including off-leash parks), dog-friendly beaches, etc.
• Prepare your pet for the move. It's best if your pet can travel with you in the car, as this makes it easy for you to keep an eye on him. If he's not used to traveling, start with short car trips and gradually build up to longer trips.
• If your pet has to be transported by plane, make sure you have an appropriate airline-approved crate and all documentation. Consult with your vet to help ensure that your pet will have a safe flight.
• On moving day, keep your pet safely confined to a crate and out of the way while the moving company works. Leaving your pet in a room isn't ideal as someone may inadvertantly open the door, allowing your pet to escape. Notify the movers about your pet and periodically check on your pet to ensure he's still doing fine.
• Make sure your pet's ID is clearly visible at all times. Attach a number where you can be reached while you're in transit and getting settled into your new home.
• If your trip to your new home is likely to take more than a day, book pet-friendly accommodations in advance so that you and your pet both have a safe place to stay for the night.
• Once you arrive at your new home: - Keep your pet confined once again, until the moving company is finished. - Make sure your pet's ID is up-to-date, Many pet supply stores have automated machines that will print up a new ID tag within minutes. - Contact the municipality to license your pets, if required. - Arrange for your veterinary records to be transferred to your new vet clinic.

Source: http://www.petfriendlyrentals.ca

Design gone to the dogs

Design gone to the dogs

Local designer wags his tail after gaining recognition with his piece for pampered pets
Shelley Fralic, Vancouver Sun
Published: Friday, May 23, 2008

It's one thing to graduate from the University of B.C.'s school of architecture, as Glenn Ross did in 2001, but it's another entirely to establish a niche in the Metro Vancouver design world and then make a living at it.

So when Ross found himself, or rather his work, featured in Architectural Digest's Great Design Issue, on newsstands earlier this month, he sensed his career might be turning that all-important corner.

The venerated magazine's nod to Ross's talent -- his sleek bentwood WoWo Dog Pod shares editorial space on page 78 with the Porsche Carrera and Gio Ponti Italian porcelain -- comes just as he's moving his company, Vurv Design, out of a rented garage and into a new industrial space in Port Coquitlam.

If the future looks bright, it was somewhat foggier back at UBC, until Ross took a class on furniture design that was part of the architecture program.
It was there he discovered an affinity for working with wood.

"I always had passion and interest in design, and that's what got me going in that direction."
After graduation, he took the "scenic route," designing architectural models for a Japanese exhibition, a job that gave him enough money to kickstart his Vurv Design firm.

He credits much of his growing success to happenstance, including finding a vacuum press, which bends wood, along with a table saw and an assortment of other basic woodworking tools at an auction, and "if it wasn't for that moment, I wouldn't be where I am now."

He started producing his designs in 2002, working out of a New Westminster garage, creating custom minimalist modern furniture of handcrafted wood, including platform beds, desks and kitchen and bathroom cabinets.

He worked on commission, with some of his work juried at a local wood cooperative, and although he was busy, he wasn't exactly stuffing bundles of cash under his mattress.

"I really like the design process and doing custom work, but it's very difficult to make a living at it," says Ross, who is now 40, married to a school teacher and father of two daughters.

And then along came Oliver, the family's German shepherd-blue heeler cross, a big dog with a big appetite.

"It was one of those epiphanies, staring at that ugly pet feeder," Ross now says, referring to Oliver's food dish and all the crusty grossness and mucky floor gunk left behind when a big dog sticks his snout into a pile of Alpo in the corner of the kitchen.

Sensing there might be a market for a pet food dish not quite so hard to look at, he designed and built a stylish raised feeder fashioned out of bamboo, maple, cherry and wenge veneer, as well as hammered aluminum. The feeders come in a variety of sizes, with stainless steel bowls.

And, this being the place where everything goes to the dogs, Metro Vancouverites lapped them up, to the degree that Vurv's output today is exclusively for four-legged customers and their indulgent owners, or as Ross says, "the young urban crowd that has dogs instead of kids."

There are five pieces in the WoWo pet collection, and a new wall-mounted feeder is in the works.
"That's all I do now. I don't do any custom work at all. I'm simply developing the WoWo line."

The items include that curvaceous $599 Dog Pod featured in Architectural Digest and its more conventional looking sister, the Ellipse Bed, both of which come with washable faux-fur cushions and look like something Charles Eames might have dreamed up had he lived in the time of the pampered pet.

The exposure to Architectural Digest readers, who number in the millions around the world, is another one of those career happenstances, says Ross.

"I was very happy about that. I never would have dreamed I'd be in that magazine when I graduated from school."

Or that he'd be getting WoWo orders from pet lovers in Russia, Switzerland and Japan.

"I'm very excited to think about my products heading so far away."

And although he says he's "nowhere close to being finished with the pet thing, I'm excited about applying techniques to the human products."

These days he has one full-time employee and is even "starting to make a living."

Oliver, by the way, may be the artist's muse, but he doesn't have one of those posh puppy pods because his master has been too busy of late to make one big enough.

sfralic@png.canwest.com

***PRODUCT BUZZ*** You can find a WoWo product of your own here at the Pawhaus Pet Boutique. Hand-made in Canada and includes heavy stainless steel bowls - you don't want to have these feeders hiding in a corner!

Dear Valentine: A Dog’s Love Letter to His Person

Dear Valentine,

There are so many things in my life that I love. Dog food, dog biscuits, stuff in the trash can, smelly spots in the backyard, sunny spots on the living room floor, my box full of toys, your socks, the middle of your bed, chasing squirrels, long walks, the fire hydrant at the end of our road, hanging my head out of the car window.... All those things are fantastic, but what makes my tail wag more than anything is you, my best friend. I feel like the luckiest dog in the world to have you as my person.

This is why:

I start my day waking up happy and snuggled next to you. I am thankful that you kept me warm and safe through the night, and I hope that I did an adequate job of doing the same for you. I can hardly wait to help you wake up with a kiss on your cheek.

You always return the love by having a yummy, salty taste on your face and scratching me behind my ears! My day gets even better when you clip a leash to my collar and we go for that thing you call a "w-a-l-k"! It makes me happy that we're connected by the leash-thing, because then I know other dogs won't try to take my beloved person away from me. What makes this time with you even better is that you've included all kinds of flying, climbing, and creeping creatures along the way for me to chase and talk to. AND you put a fun, smelly hydrant-thing on our road for me to sniff! You must be the most thoughtful person a dog could have.

After our walk I usually feel a little sad because you get all dressed up in your suit and leave for a while. How I miss you when you are gone. BUT, because you are so kind, you give me toys to chew while you are away (although they're not nearly as fun without you by my side).

While you're away I spend most of my time lying on your blue jeans next to the picture of you, which you hung on the wall for me to look at.

The absolute best part of my day is when you come home to me. My nose tells me you are near when I pick up the scent of pure bliss (that bliss is even greater if you ate something extra yummy for lunch)! Then you come through the door and I lay my eyes, my paws, and my cold nose on my best friend as I try to jump into your arms and tell you how much I love and missed you.

I could go on and on, Best Friend. You fill my days with joy, and I hope that nothing will ever come between you being my person and me being your dog. I am here for you no matter what your life brings, and my love for you is truly unconditional. Know that I would run miles to be with you, risk any danger to protect you, and lick countless tears to comfort you. You are my person, my buddy, and my true love. I want to always be the one who makes you smile.

I wear my heart on my wagging tail, and I will always do my utmost to let you know that I love you more than anything (even biscuits)!

Love Always, Your Dog


Source: http://www.petplace.com/dogs/dear-valentine-a-dogs-love-letter-to-his-person/page1.aspx

How to Spend Valentines with your Pet

Our pets are special to us - so what better way to spend a day about love than with someone who loves you endlessly!

Here are a few ideas for how to make Valentines special for you and your pet:

• Give your pet a massage - it helps bond with your pet, allows them to relax as well as you.
• After a long walk with your pet - burn an aroma-therapy candle while you do to make for a more mellow evening
• Spoil them with a new toy - a buddy to cuddle with while you are out for the evening
• bake them their own special dessert - chocolates are toxic to dogs so let your pet have a cake of their very own (we also carry mixes!)
• if it's cold outside, dress them in a cool t-shirt that lets everyone know that they are loved.

Don't for get this week you can get 10% off select items that will make your pooch's tail wag... even more!

Is there really any difference between dog shampoo & human shampoos?

We hear this question all the time– "what’s the difference between my shampoo and my dog’s shampoo?"

You may be surprised to learn that a lot is different. Of course, if you run out of Fido’s shampoo and you use your own to wash your dog a couple of times, nothing will happen. Your dog’s hair won’t fall out and life will probably go on as normal.

But there are areas in which human and dog shampoos differ. You may not notice the ill effects of human shampoo if used only a couple of times on your pooch, but after repeated use, you’ll start to see.

1. Ingredients. Dog’s have different problems that humans do. We usually don’t sit around and scratch our heads as much as dogs scratch. This is because dog’s eliminate toxins differently than we do. We can sweat them out. Since dogs really don’t sweat their toxins are eliminated through their kidneys and bowels...
2. Ph Balance. A dog’s skin is about 7.5 while human skin is about 5.5 (to put it in perspective, water is about 7.0). Therefore, a dog’s skin is more alkaline so ideally a dog’s shampoo should be between 6.5-7.5 or it could be irritating to the skin. Highly acidic shampoos may also diminish the hair’s protective qualities, removing valuable oil from the coat and skin. the result is dry, irritated skin and a dull coat. Of course it’s a vicious cycle because the dog will scratch which only makes the problem worse.
3. Dog’s have sensitive skin- A dog only has about 3-5 cell-layers thick while we have about 10-15 layers thick. So, harsh shampoos with lots of chemicals and those that aren’t PH balanced will be irritating.

The case for conditioners - Shampoos by design are used for cleaning- removing unwanted grime from the skin and coat. But shampooing, without sealing the coat afterwords, leaves the hair shaft open– at that point residue can enter and oils and hydration escapes.
What you can do is use a conditioner after shampooing to close the hair cuticle and restore hydration, moisture and elasticity.

Conditioners also fill in the damaged hair that drying, brushing, dematting and rubbing causes. Just normal wear and tear chips away at the hair cuticle. Conditioners can help to remove the cuticle to a smooth state and one that gives a more lustrous appearance and feel...

So know you know the difference– there really is one!

Monday Madness - 10% off for your Sweet-pups

February is Pet Dental Month

Brushing Your Dog's Teeth -

It is Mandatory for a Healthy Pet! February is National Pet Dental Health Month. There are so many aspects of keeping your dog healthy, but in my opinion, none is more important than brushing their teeth. The American Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS) estimates that eighty percent of dogs have periodontal disease by the age of three. A few years ago, the idea of brushing your dog’s teeth was nearly unheard of. While it is gaining popularity, the majority of pet owners still do not brush their dogs’ teeth on a regular basis.

Objections to tooth-brushing:

1. I only give her dry dog food so I don’t need to brush her teeth: Unfortunately most dry dog foods have high starch content. Sugar and starches combine with the bacteria in the mouth and produce acids. These acids can eat away at the enamel on the tooth in addition to causing plaque build-up.
2. My dog doesn’t like it: When I was a kid, I didn’t like brushing my teeth, but it wasn’t a choice. It is part of a healthy lifestyle. If you let your dog make all the decisions in your house, it would be a disaster!
3. I don’t need to; I give them bones and chew toys: This is an equivalent approach to only chewing gum for your personal dental hygiene. You won’t find a dentist that recommends that approach! It is a nice addition but can’t do the job alone.
4. I just put an additive in the water: This is an equivalent approach to only using a mouth rinse for your own personal hygiene, except not even as good because your dog isn’t gargling and rinsing. Again, a nice addition but not sufficient by itself.

If you don’t brush your dog’s teeth, plaque will build up on the teeth, break off, and be absorbed into the bloodstream. This can lead to blockage in the arteries causing heart disease and kidney problems.

Hopefully, now I’ve convinced you that brushing is imperative. Here are some things you should know:

1. Brush at least three times per week to get maximum benefits.
2. Don’t use human toothpaste unless you have taught your dog to spit! Look on the back of your toothpaste. You will most likely find a statement that it should not be ingested. This is because it contains soap. Soap creates foam, which gives people the perception that the product is cleaning but is not indicative of the cleaning power of a product (it is for marketing purposes: perception is reality). Toothpaste designed specifically for pets does not contain soap; it won’t foam up; and it can be swallowed safely.
3. Replace the toothbrush when the bristles become frayed or every 3 months, as the brush will start to harbor microorganisms.
4. Follow teeth brushing with praise and an award so he/she looks forward to it next time.The American Animal Hospital Association says, “proper dental care may add as much as five years to your pet's life!" (http://www.healthypet.com/library_view.aspx?id=142). It only takes about one minute. Isn’t increasing your dog’s life expectancy worth a few minutes per week?

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You can start your pets brushing routine right here at the Pawhaus Pet Boutique. We carry Cain & Able Kissable Toothbrush sets that will help your dog ward of bad breath, gum disease, multiple infections, and heart disease by consistently brushing your dog's teeth.
The unique design of the KissAble toothbrush makes it easy to clean all three sides of the tooth with one stroke.
The soft bristles massage the gums while the firmer bristles clean teeth.
The vanilla flavored toothpaste is All Natural and is great for dogs and their people! Get yours today!

Source: http://www.cainandablecollection.com/blog.asp